>> Tommy Hilfiger continues to up his fashion ante — with the help of Peter Som, and this time, Karl Templer, who was listed as creative consultant/stylist for the show. "Pop Prep," as the Spring 2012 collection was dubbed, incorporated an abstract camouflage print, shirttail hems on boxy dresses, and suite of loose colorblocked caftans; in sum: a cross between an "homage to the 60s" and "a Technicolor interpretation of the prep classics Tommy Hilfiger is known for."
>> For his second-ever ad campaign, Alexander Wang chose Fabien Baron to shoot Raquel Zimmermann in an abandoned grain factory from the '20s in Red Hook, Brooklyn. Karl Templer, Wang's usual collaborator, was on styling duty. “We wanted something really gritty and raw to contrast with the polished richness of what we showed on fall runway,” Wang explained of the scene.
The accompanying campaign video, set to a soundtrack of SebastiAn’s “CTFO” featuring MIA, is going to be projected at several locations around Manhattan (Houston and McDougal, 14th and University, 14th Street and 8th Avenue) — starting around 9 pm tonight for six hours and continuing both tomorrow and Friday nights (July 13-July 15).
For those not in New York, the full video is below.
>> Louis Vuitton populated its Fall 2011 runway with supermodels like Kate Moss, Amber Valletta, Carolyn Murphy, and Naomi Campbell, but you wouldn't guess it based on the collection's campaign. Instead of its usual top model or actress seasonal face, the brand went with a cast of young upstarts — very young, in some cases: 16-year-old Zuzanna Bijoch, 15-year-old Daphne Groeneveld, 20-year-old Gertrud Hegelund, 16-year-old Nyasha Matonhodze, 20-year-old Anais Pouliot, and Fei Fei Sun, who was born in 1989.
Matonhodze, for her part, said of the moment she found out she was chosen: "My eyes filled up with tears and I thought 'Lord, you are lucky!'" The campaign was shot by Steven Meisel in a vintage car at a disused Brooklyn aerodrome; Matonhodze added of her experience: "It didn't actually hit me until I was sat in a Rolls Royce sitting eye-to-eye with Mr. Meisel. He is a wonder to work with, he and Marc [Jacobs] made me feel beautiful." Jacobs added of the set: “Who wouldn’t want to be this gorgeous young woman in the back seat of this beautiful car?”
>> The latest Fall 2011 campaign scuttlebutt: Isabeli Fontana is taking the early lead, with campaigns for Escada and Donna Karan booked, and a rumored appearance for Bottega Veneta as well. Karan's campaign, which was captured by Patrick Demarchelier the past three seasons, was snapped by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin for Fall 2011.
Meanwhile, Steven Meisel shot (and Karl Templer styled) the Fall 2011 Louis Vuitton campaign in New York yesterday — but there will reportedly be no Kate Moss appearance as there was on the runway. In fact, no supermodels will be featured at all: Instead, the six models chosen are said to be from the current generation — "Top 50-ish, a bit new. Nothing from the Icon list." Daphne Groeneveld and Fei Fei Sun are rumored to be among them.
Versace, like Donna Karan, is also switching up photographers — after going with Mario Testino for the past eight seasons, Donatella Versace has chosen Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott to do the Fall 2011 honors (with styling by Joe McKenna). Originally, the Versace campaign, like Vuitton, was reportedly supposed to feature six models, including Candice Swanepoel and Groeneveld, but the photographers are rumored to have settled instead on one girl with "short dark hair" who is a "cover star." Some are thinking that might indicate Saskia de Brauw as Versace's new girl.
To round out the Fall 2011 campaign placements so far, Juergen Teller shot Irina Kulikova yesterday for Moschino at Turin's Ristorante del Cambio, Ralph Lauren has reportedly cast its runway opener Sui He, and Liu Wen is rumored to be in the upcoming Dolce & Gabbana campaign.
A few images from the various shoots in the gallery.
RJ Cutler Rumored to Be Working On Teen Vogue's TV Project; See A Portrait of Gareth Pugh and His Longtime Boyfriend, Nude
- Nick Knight captured Gareth Pugh and his longtime boyfriend, artist Carson McColl (left), as part of a video portrait project [SHOWstudio, SHOWstudio]
- Word is that the new TV project September Issue documentarian RJ Cutler is working on is connected to Teen Vogue; apparently they've reached out to at least one well-known blogger to participate [The Cut]
- Hamish Bowles shaved off the mustache he's had for the past year while in South Anjuna for New Year's Eve [WWD]
- Lauren Hutton is a fan of Tom Ford's films: "He said, 'I'm going back to fashion.' I said, 'Oh no, why? I like your work, but I love your movies!' But, anything for Tom, and he knows that" [Harper's Bazaar]
- Calvin Klein bought Manhattan restaurant Indochine out tomorrow night for his boyfriend Nick Gruber's 21st birthday party [NY Post]
- J.Crew extended their buyout deadline to Feb. 15 to appease shareholders [The Cut]
- Philip Crangi just signed a manufacturing and distribution deal with Lucas Design, the company that produced Tom Binns's Disney Couture line, and is considering a move into leather goods and eyewear [WWD]
- Anna Wintour, who attended the White House for Chinese President Hu Jintao last night, told reporters she intended to ask Hu: "Will he invest some money in Chinese fashion?" [Styleite]
- 22 year-old Lily Kwong, cousin of Joseph Altuzarra and an Elite model, collaborated with her photographer friend on a David Lynch-inspired editorial [T]
- Kate Moss loves her country home in the Cotswalds: "I need to get away from the city every weekend to talk, cook, ride my bicycle to Londis to pick up veg and do the country thing. I had another place in the country for three years. Then there was a year that I didn't have it and I didn't know what to do with myself. I was absolutely lost without it" [Vogue UK]
- Ryan McGinley captured Lauren Hutton, Lou Doillon, Tali Lennox, and many others for Club Monaco's Spring 2011 ad campaign [Fashionetc, WWD]
- Miguel Enamorado, who spent the past three years as Interview's fashion market director, has been promoted to the magazine's fashion director under creative director Karl Templer [DFR]
>> Alexander Wang had not one, but two ad campaigns come out today. The first — a follow-up to his premiere T campaign last season featuring Hannah Holman — is a portrait of his friend Zoe Kravitz alongside model Max Motta, which just like last season will be plastered on the streets of New York starting tomorrow.
And the second, something new for Wang: his first-ever main line campaign video, a collaboration with Craig McDean, Wang's show stylist Karl Templer, and Fabien Baron, featuring Abbey Lee Kershaw in a deserted Manhattan hotel. “This is our way to sum up the season in a different light other than the show,” Wang told WWD. “It’s abstracted . . . Rather than saying, ‘Here’s the product,’ this is more about expressing ourselves.”
>> A new Interview editorial from the magazine's May 2010 issue, "Let's Get Lost," photographed by Mikael Jansson and styled by Karl Templer, is described with the following tagline: "Let's get lost. The hour is late, the air is thick, and the evening is charged with a steamy sensuality. What works? Tone-on-tone swimsuits, slithers of silk, and plenty of skin, as flesh meets flesh, body meets soul, and Daria gets lost in the heat of the night."
But since being posted online, the editorial, which highlights Daria Werbowy among an all-black cast (save for Brazilian model Lisalla Montenegro), is eliciting adverse reactions around the web. Commenters on The Fashion Spot write: "I expect more from Interview than some stereotypical, white person enters into strange and exotic world of brown people editorial." And: "I can't believe that the editorial team got away with a story that overtly exposes and even promotes such racist stereotypes. The one time they chose to cast an amazing variety of black models they had to play with a tired concept; the only reason why they are honestly here in this story is to play up the stereotype of black people as anonymous, sexual, savage beings who here play back up dancer to Daria (the white person)."
Refinery29 agrees: "From the differences in their dress (Daria's in ethereal, angel-like gowns, the others are in knits and leathers) to their body language (A limp yet super-sexual Daria is the main focus, the others feel almost like props), the whole spread has a rather racist vibe that we can't get down with." As do commenters at the Livejournal community Fashin, one noting that the models surrounding Daria look like "blackcessories" and another adding that the models look like "they're just props."
>> Fall 2010 campaign season is well under way — and although not all casts have been finalized, as is the case over at Miu Miu, many have, causing an influx of rumors and confirmations. On Wednesday, Karen Elson joined Christy Turlington and Natalia Vodianova on the Fall 2010 Louis Vuitton campaign set in New York, where Steven Meisel photographed and Karl Templer styled. Meisel also shot the Lanvin campaign this week in New York, with Alber Elbaz overseeing another trio: Anja Rubik, Magdelena Frackowiak and Mariacarla Boscono.
Givenchy, too, is rumored to be going with a trio of female models — Ming Xi, Joan Smalls, and Mariacarla Boscono — joined by a few male models in front of Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott's lens. But the trio trend breaks there — word going around is that Meisel captured 12 girls for Balenciaga, including Finnish newcomer Kirsi Pyrhonen, and Roberto Cavalli is going solo with Gisele Bundchen shot by Mert and Marcus.
>> Louis Vuitton Reportedly Picks Two Models Who Didn't Walk Fall 2010 Runway for Campaign — After Louis Vuitton's voluptuous Fall 2010 cast featuring models in a range of ages — from Bar Refaeli to Elle Macpherson — there were many potential choices to lead the brand's subsequent campaign. But in fact, Marc Jacobs has reportedly gone with two models for Fall 2010, neither of which walked the runway — Natalia Vodianova, who sat front row at the show, and Christy Turlington. The campaign will apparently be shot next week with Karl Templer, not show stylist Katie Grand, doing styling honors. [@LiveFashionWeek]
>> Despite the vast concrete-floored warehouse space waiting inside Pier 94 to house Alexander Wang's guests, they all had to pass through a single set of double doors at the entrance yesterday, causing quite the crush, particularly because a burly security guard took up a large part of the entryway, allowing VIPs like Dasha Zhukova and Fabien Baron pass on his right, while everyone else had to go to his left.
The crowd buzzed with excitement; after all, Wang has come a long way in a few short seasons — to the point that a major magazine's accessories editor had to ask stylists to stop using one of his shoes, the lace-up sandal boot from Spring 2010, which had become ubiquitous, in all of their shoots.
Tavi Gavinson emerged from backstage, Fashion Television camera crew in tow, and took to laughing with and interviewing Lauren Santo Domingo, Julia Restoin Roitfeld, and Derek Blasberg. She took her front row seat, and the stadium-style lights went down and then up, revealing opener (and closer) Natalia Vodianova, hair shellacked over one eye, as she walked along the long black background, giving the audience a prolonged view in profile, before turning to give them a closer look.
Wang, like fellow young designer Jason Wu, felt the need for a turning point in his brand this season, hence a focus on a more tailored silhouette in the form of deconstructed pinstripe suits: Wall Street, Wang-style. But there was also a strong element of late-'90s goth: the models wore black backpacks with fluttery floor-length tails, 5-inch high chunky-heeled mid-calf boots in velvet or brown with burnished yellow toes (which they had trouble turning in), pleated mini-skirts with tuxedo tails in back, and mid-thigh leggings which belled out over their shoes. There was even some chenille and a black leather trench thrown into the mix.
Big on collaborations, Wang worked with stylist Karl Templer and Linda Farrow sunglasses each for the second time, the latter producing bug-eyed shades worn over the models' hair, and Gaia Repossi for jewelry. In addition to Natalia, Freja Beha Erichsen and Snejana Onopka made their runway debut for the week; Agyness Deyn and Jessica Miller, ready for a comeback, also took a turn. The designer's CFDA-appointed mentor Diane von Furstenberg was front row, smiling during the finale, along with her CEO Paula Sutter, whose appearance raised a few questions about investment potential (DVF has a stake in Nathan Jensen's line).