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Paul Cucinello on the Science of Brassy Hair Color

While I was talking to hair color guru Paul Cucinello about hair glaze, the conversation turned to preventing brassiness, something I hear concerns about a lot. First, Cucinello broke down why it happens in the first place. "When you are using anything chemical, after six weeks the hair totally normalizes to its original state," he explained. The cuticle lifts back up so the product is released from the hair."

So why does red hair looks less red and blond hair look so orange? There's a perfectly logical explanation: "Red, yellow and blue color molecules are in your hair, and the first to come out is the smallest molecule — which is blue. That's why you see so many violet conditioners for blond hair, to control the pigment." Presumably, this means blue hair would be the hardest to maintain. Wonder how that Marge Simpson does it...


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