Backstage at Proenza Schouler, designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough chatted with Frederic Fekkai, whose hair care line was being used on the models. Mr. Fekkai wasn't doing hair, but lead stylist Paul Hanlon led a team in creating an undone, tousled updo. "It's a twisted Hitchcock thing," Hanlon explained. "It's cool and sexy, but the designers wanted a maturity to the look." He applied Fekkai Coiff Oceanique Tousled Wave spray throughout hair before finger-combing it dry with a diffuser. After pulling hair into a French twist, he left a few pieces out for what he calls "a feeling that it's fallen." In one unusual but effective move, he wrapped hair with mesh scarves, then set the texture with Fekkai Coiff Sheer Hold hair spray before removing the scarf.
Makeup had a tomboyish quality. "They're much more ladylike than they usually are, but they still wanted a tough edge," makeup artist Diane Kendal said of the designers' vision. Flawless skin and contoured cheekbones (courtesy of MAC Iridescent Powder in Silver Dusk) provided a contrast to the strong eye. Kendal created tomboyish eyebrows by brushing on shadow a shade darker than each model's natural color. The finishing touch: a little bit of foundation dabbed on the lips.