What's a Chemical Exfoliant? A Dermatologist Breaks It Down

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Stocksy | Stereo Shot
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Walk into any Sephora, Ulta, or department store or pharmacy, and you're likely to see hoards of bottles that list a chemical exfoliant as an active ingredient in their formula. Words like alpha hydroxy acid, lactic acid, and glycolic acid can sound intimidating if you're unfamiliar, but the ingredients actually have some hefty benefits that are worth exploring.

To help you decide whether to work them into your routine, we consulted board-certified dermatologist Dhaval Bhanusali, MD, to explain and demystify the common ingredients. Ahead, he breaks down everything you need to know about chemical exfoliators — including what they are and how they can transform your skin. Keep reading to learn more.

What Is Exfoliation?

Exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells on the skin. There are two methods in which you can do this: the first is through physical scrubs, which typically contain tiny particles to manually slough off flakes; the second is through chemical exfoliants that frequently come in liquid forms.

How can you tell? If you see the word "acid" — like salicylic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, and polyhydroxy acid — listed on a product, chances are it's a chemical exfoliant.

How Do Chemical Exfoliants Work?

Chemical exfoliants loosen the bonds between cells, ridding your skin of dead or loose ones. "The ingredients remove debris from clogged pores and encourage increased cell turnover, which means you'll have fresh skin at the surface," Dr. Bhanusali tells POPSUGAR. This can result in fewer breakouts and a more even complexion.

Should You Use a Chemical Exfoliant?

Dr. Bhanusali is a fan of the ingredients and recommends them to almost all of his patients, depending on their individual needs.

"If they have a problem with acne, I like beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) like salicylic acid," he says. "Glycolic acid is great for hyperpigmentation and rejuvenation." If you have oily skin, you can use chemical exfoliants three to four times a week, while those with sensitive skin should limit use to two or three times weekly. Dr. Bhanusali advises people with sensitive skin go for polyhydroxy acids. If you work out a lot, he recommends you treat your skin to a lactic acid or salicylic-acid-spiked body wash.

If you're eager to try out chemical exfoliants for yourself, check out his product picks ahead.

Best Chemical-Exfoliant Pads
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Best Chemical-Exfoliant Pads

Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel Pads ($92)

This two-step AHA product is perfect for anyone who wants to exfoliate daily to reveal brighter skin. It works well for all skin types, but if you have sensitive skin, we'd suggest using these pads every other day at the start, then slowly working your way up to daily use.

Best Lactic Acid Chemical Exfoliant
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Best Lactic Acid Chemical Exfoliant

Sunday Riley Good Genes All-In-One AHA Lactic Acid Treatment ($85)

The Sunday Riley Good Genes All-In-One AHA Lactic Acid Treatment is perfect for anyone looking to combat hyperpigmentation and dark spots. It can be used daily and left on for those with normal skin, but it can also be customized for those with sensitive skin — just wear it as a mask for 15 minutes, then rinse it off.

Best Glycolic Acid Chemical Exfoliant
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Best Glycolic Acid Chemical Exfoliant

The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Exfoliating Toner ($13)

Honestly, what can't The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Exfoliating Toner do? It recently went viral on TikTok for being a deodorant substitute, and it's also great for scalp exfoliation. Not to mention, our editors love it.

Best Mandelic Acid Chemical Exfoliant
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Best Mandelic Acid Chemical Exfoliant

Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 6% Mandelic Acid + 2% Lactic Acid Liquid Exfoliant ($37)

If you have sensitive skin, Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 6% Mandelic Acid + 2% Lactic Acid Liquid Exfoliant is the perfect product for you. The brand recommends using this product every other day and then working your way up to daily use, and one of our editors says it's been the perfect product to add to her routine, even though she has sensitive, acne-prone skin. Read the full review here.

Best Chemical-Exfoliant Lotion
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Best Chemical-Exfoliant Lotion

Skinfix Resurface+ AHA Renewing Body Cream ($48)

If you suffer from dry, bumpy skin, the Skinfix Resurface+ AHA Renewing Body Cream is going to be your new best friend. It's made with an AHA blend to exfoliate, but it also includes moisturizing ingredients that will hydrate your skin at the same time.

Best Chemical-Exfoliant Body Wash
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Best Chemical-Exfoliant Body Wash

Kosas Good Body Skin AHA + Enzyme Exfoliating Body Wash ($22)

This luxurious body wash is made with an AHA blend of glycolic, mandelic, and lactic acids to slough away dead skin cells. It's perfect for anyone who gets super sweaty during workouts and wants to unclog their pores. It's made for all skin types.