>> Now that Joseph Altuzarra is profitable, he aims to keep it that way — his Fall 2011 collection was his most commercial yet. “Before, I would literally design the jacket with the skirt and the coat,” he admitted. “This was more about each piece being individually unique and special and not having to work perfectly with anything else.” Translation: they're more individually sellable.
The furry oversized parkas, John Galliano-like D-ringed satin slipdresses, tweed coats, and pervasive argyle prints came from "looking at the idea of grunge and then Kate Moss in the 1990s [her Johnny Depp years] — something functional like parkas over bias-cut dresses that look almost like undergarments." And a collaboration with Current/Elliott produced six different denim styles.
Altuzarra adviser Vanessa Traina didn't walk the runway as she has the past couple of seasons; she wasn't front row, either. But Altuzarra's close friend Alexander Wang was, as usual — especially notable this season because much talk has turned today to whether Wang and Altuzarra spoke about their Fall 2011 collections while designing. Cathy Horyn points out very similar quilting-lined ponchos that appeared on each of their runways, they both played Prodigy's "Firestarter" on their show soundtracks, and both incorporated elements like glitter (on pants at Wang and shoes at Altuzarra), satin, and high slit skirts.