On a runway shrouded by dry ice mist, Haider Ackermann sent out a Fall 2013 lineup that felt tough, powerful, and sublimely elegant. Models with two-inch roots in their spiked-and-bleached hair marched slowly to the eerie sounds of wind blowing and boots stomping, while intermittent piano music further spurred the aura of melancholia.
"I'm surrounded by so many strong women, but there’s always a fragility inside, and I wanted to explore that," the designer explained of the dystopian feeling that permeated the show. Suits, jackets, and coats were piled on in slouchy layers and oversize shapes, all of which were artfully draped, folded, and tailored in Ackermann's signature expert way. Fabrics were also similarly heavy and defensive and included monochrome wools, herringbone, leather, and superthick fur. The future may be dark, but at least we'll have something chic to wear.