Brian Reyes's clothes are undeniably pretty, but, as I discovered backstage at his Fall show, it's all in the details. I was able to closely examine the clothes, some smart separates, some intricately beaded dresses. But a wavy seam, slight cut-out, or asymmetrical contour provided more than meets the eye. This was a backstage that was pretty under control; the designer stopped to talk to me for a few minutes while hair and makeup was wrapping up. He was "giddy" minutes before showtime. Aside from the unraveling of the models and their stiletto Manolo Blahniks, the show proved a success. For the finale, the shoes were thrown into a heap on the ground and models enthusiastically walked on.
Reyes's most famous fan, Rachel Bilson, seemed to think so too. I'll let the clothes speak for themselves, and Reyes speak for himself. Read on . . .
What inspired you this season?
"We wanted her to be sharp, tailored, glamorous, and sexy — very important. She’s a young girl, and we dress a lot of young girls, but we love that she’s growing with us so we want her to be a young lady. A young, elegant lady. But still with androgyny, still with the elements we love. The raw element, but maybe raw in the sharp cut of the line."
Tell me about your lingerie line?
"We incorporate it into our ready-to-wear. We have custom prints that really work well with this collection and we are injecting basic lingerie pieces in those prints. We have this tailored girl and she still needs to be feminine; it’s important to keep that alive in the collection."
For the rest and more runway photos,
This is an interesting printed dress.
"Everything we have in this collection is custom to this girl, the shoes, the makeup, the hair. All the prints were custom developed and inspired by marble quarries. And marble also from around the world. It can be an interpretation of whoever's wearing it, it could be something that represents electricity, or represents an oxidized statue that’s beautiful. It’s really up to the wearer's interpretation."
Who do you see wearing your clothes?
"She’s worldly and every age. We dress young women in their twenties and thirties, and fifties and sixties; I love that we get to dress every woman. I think that’s so unique and special about our collection."
What other news can we expect from you this year?
"We collaborated with Roxanne Assoulin from Lee Angel, we’re selling the jewelry from this collection. The lingerie is very important. The bags are ours, we’re not launching a bag collection but we wanted something that was very special, it could be something to explore in the future."
How are you doing things differently given the current economic climate?
"We’re just being more cautious and intelligent. I think it forces you to be competitive and be competitive with yourself. It forces you to be more creative and that is exciting."