People say that a collection should speak for itself, but we like to hear about the clothes just as much as we do see them. If a designer's inspiration is thoughtful, if their work is both creative and cognitive, it can bring to life an element of the collection that even the most poised model cannot conjure. The season, James Coviello was partly inspired by Neo Rauch, the German painter most often associated with Socialist Realism (this is not, Kundera territory). Rauch's work is highly narrative and, as Coviello mentions in our backstage interview, 'nostalgic'. Knowing Rauch a bit, and revisiting his paintings after the show, our appreciation for the collection deepened. The dynamic color combinations and theatrical accessories in Coviello's show, though lively on the runway, became prized-possession territory after the inspiration was revealed.
'Paranoia', oil on canvas painting by Neo Rauch, 2007