Raf Simons bowed out at Jil Sander with a soft pastel palette and minimalist silhouettes for Fall 2012. His finale — a modest showing of femininity in truly modern proportion — was met with a standing ovation. The trick was subtlety in both color play and the measure of each silhouette — colors were rich, but soft; cutouts were sexy, but never overt. There was grace and balance in every look. We're treated to evening wear in sporty-cum-sexy corsetted cocktail dresses, with a flash of patent that feels fresh and ladylike, never offensive; while tops are cut with lingerie-inspired, body-conscious detailing that's all at once provocative and elegant. The collection as a whole walks that line between innovation and restraint: a flash of metallics, an oversize powder pink coat. Each piece works in perfect balance delivering, above all, wearability. Jil Sander has some big shoes to fill when she returns to take the helm next season.
- Trends: Minimalist, pastels, metallics, jumpsuits, corsetted bodices, cutouts.
- Colors: Soft pink and blue, red, camel, nude, navy, white, and silver.
- Key Piece: The cutout jumpsuit that's sophisticated and just sexy enough.
- Accessories: Ankle-strap pointed-toe pumps, colored handheld clutch, and sophisticated leather satchels.
- Who Would Wear It: Girls like Kate Bosworth, Zoe Saldana, Kerry Washington; the femme with modern edge.