"Reset to zero," read the notes for Jil Sander's Spring 2013 show, the first womenswear collection shown by the company's founding designer in eight years. Indeed, after last season's emotional Raf Simons send-off following the sudden announcement that Sander would be rejoining her namesake label, there was little doubt that the house was in need of a nice fresh start. And in a way that's exactly what we got — though it didn't come in the form of direction-shifting drama or statement-making change. Instead, Sander offered up a collection that felt comfortingly true and reassuringly restrained, with just enough modernity to provoke a little intrigue. Silhouettes were cut in structured curves that stood elegantly away from the body, while the palette of rich navy, burgundy, and crisp white punctuated by vivid orange felt right in line with fashion's recent penchant for cleverly appointed color. There was plenty to love and it was plenty serene, but mostly it will be interesting to see where it all leads.
Jil Sander Spring 2013