>> Marco Zanini's new, more commercial interpretation at Rochas was so well-received last season, he kicked off Paris Fashion Week this morning, taking his designs to the runway for the first time under the label. Anna Wintour was front row for the '40s-inspired collection with below-the-knee hemlines: Zanini said he wanted to get away from classic Parisian fashion, and instead imagined "a young woman going to a boarding school in Saigon."
The reception seems to be positive, if a bit unenthused. T's Anne Christensen deemed it "not what I expected but nice"; the AP concluded that Zanini made "a strong case for [Rochas's] resurrection"; Cathy Horyn called it "interesting, unhurried . . . I sensed [Zanini] was doing his version of French sportswear, perhaps inspired by the Rochas legacy"; and WWD noted that the collection had similarities to Dries van Noten's work, but "Zanini seems to have plenty of ideas and enough technical skill to put Rochas somewhere on the map."