In recent years too many designers have passed through the house of Halston, but let us all hope Marios Schwab sticks around for more than a season or two. With no more than a gentle nod to the house's historic roots, last night Schwab presented a powerful, modern fall 2010 collection for Halston which was decidedly more confident than past designers' attempts.
The 1978 film starring Faye Dunaway, The Eyes of Laura Mars, inspired both the set design—3D shards of mirror—and the collection's jewel tone palette. Color was used most notably in a yellow gold knit cape dress, an emerald green tunic and trouser combo, a blue velvet draped dress, and a crimson boat neck mini with epaulettes. Softer shades—putty, blush, and gray—provided some contrast in an group of neoprene sculpted dresses and fur embellished coats and sweater dresses, often outlined in graphic Swarovski studs.
As beautiful as the clothes were, we must admit the footwear almost stole the show. Neutral-colored booties with slits down the front, mink and pony shearling gladiator heels, sandal straps made with puffy suede tubes, and chunky chain platforms had nearly every editor we spoke to eager to place their personal orders.
Sarah Jessica Parker was in attendance (animated and looking quite pleased), no doubt soaking up inspiration for her upcoming Halston Heritage collection. Perhaps Parker is owed a little credit for this collection as well. In her new role, she will be responsible for the reinvention of signature pieces, which gives Schwab the freedom to dream up more forward-thinking designs for the storied label.