With the first two days of Milan Fashion Week's Womenswear Spring 2009 collections behind us an unfortunate pattern of subdued sobriety is already making itself known on a few unexpected catwalks. Milan has always been a two sided coin, balancing the best in tailored craftsmanship with decidedly flashy (and occasionally trashy) overabundant dressing. It always seemed fitting that Italian fashion gave life to Roman god Janus' dual natures.
The trouble with this picture is that we don't need the calm sobriety of a Jil Sander in a Just Cavalli or a Moschino Cheap and Chic. If we want severe dressing we will go straight to the source. Milan's boldest and brightest exist for a reason and they serve legions of luxury's most amusing from investment banker girlfriends to Russian oil oligarch mistresses.
But Janus is also the god of beginnings and endings. The 90s glamazon head days are officially over even as we pretended at its resurgence for a few seasons of the aughts. There is no more outlandish bottles and models Euro-trash let's get sick and slick culture to look forward to anymore. Even the banks have closed. And so we begin a new age of sobriety with no clear end in sight. Its just a shame that the Italians had to bring it home so hard.