I've talked about VPLs numerous times on Fab but haven't mentioned VPL as much. Allow me to clarify. VPL by Victoria Bartlett does play on visible panty lines, but it's seen as a good thing in her world. I've been coveting one of Victoria Bartlett's color contrast bra-like tops for a while now and was excited to see her unique bodycon creations in the flesh, or rather, in the fabric. VPL celebrates contrast and contradiction and the designer is inspired by some really interesting stuff. See VPL's Fall collection and hear the designer behind the label.
You’ve always done innerwear as outerwear. And now a lot of designers are doing that.
Yes, it’s always been that way. A lot people mistake it for lingerie. I never intended lingerie; it was always innerwear. Years ago when I was at Miu Miu I started doing innerwear as outerwear and I was always fascinated by innerwear to be seen. Innerwear, outerwear, anywhere. It’s really a mixing block so you can layer.
Is there anything you did differently this time around?
You know what’s weird, I went back to what is inherent to VPL which is the “Musculature” of the whole body. The only thing that was really new was bringing more tailoring to it. But it was quite an adventure for me because I’ve always been much more about cut and sew and knits.
To see more from Victoria's Fall collection and to hear the rest of the interview,
Tell me about the fabrics you used?
A lot of the fabrics that I tailored were really manable and spongy even though they look sculpted. I’m really into textures. Viscose is so soft, when you want to sleep in something . . . it’s just so soft.
Who are your muses?
[Interruption for an introduction to shoe designer Jean Michel Cazabat, who did the shoes for the show — loved the metallic flat boots!]
Louise Bourgeois [French artist and sculptor] and pendulous shapes and body formations. It’s quite sensual. She uses all color palettes and different textures. And Hans Bellmer [the German surrealist artist] who did jointed dolls in the late ‘20s. You have all these lines that were divided and sculptural muscle areas. To me that’s something I love and love exploring.