Influenced by 19th Century shapes, Ohne Titel designers Alexa Adams and Flora Gill took an athletic spin on Victorian style for fall 2010, toughening up Edwardian ideas and adding military details to give the collection the strong and sleek look for which the pair has become known.
"The total idea was this sort of Victorian silhouette. We wanted to take some of the shapes and even some of the textures and modernize it in an interesting way," Adams told us backstage after the runway show. The theme was best illustrated in the graphic netting used in leggings and paneled dresses. For this Adams and Gill explained they used old world lace-making techniques on a series of meshes, then magnified the pattern to create an exaggerated lace—a look which stole the show and provided a constant theme throughout.
Overall the collection was powerful yet approachable and utterly wearable. Some of the designers' favorite looks will no doubt be flying off shelves come fall—most notably a all-mesh dress with matching mesh leggings, a black fox and shearling jacket with a black leather belt, jogging-style slouch pants, cropped leather jackets, and the leather and net booties designed with Cesare Paciotti.
Gill told us the most gratifying part of creating clothes is to see strangers on the street wearing Ohne Titel, and, with this collection, we're pretty sure she's going to have one incredible fall season.