The New York Times's Eric Wilson writes of the collection: "The clothes are remarkable because they reflect Mr. Theyskens’s signature drainpipe style, but also look like Theory’s urban wardrobe." There are 80 looks in all, priced 30 to 40 percent higher than Theory's main collection. Among the goods: a narrow-sleeved leather jacket with white cotton lining (under $1,000), trim white jeans with loose-fitting pockets and cuffs sewn to stay rolled (about $240), floaty dresses made with double layers of Japanese crinkle polyster ($690), a black washed silk dress with elastic straps and pockets (around $500 to $550), jackets cut with a deep notch at the back of the neck, suit separates in stretch wool, jeans painted with a silver paint substance, and shoes. In the past, when Theyskens worked for Rochas and Nina Ricci, his creations were upwards of $2,000.
“I think the one thing that maybe people don’t understand is the range that Olivier is capable of,” Theory’s president and founder Andrew Rosen, who owns a horse named "Theyskens' Theory," said. “I think that he was very much inspired by doing something more democratic.”