Prabal Gurung's Fall 2013 collection could easily be interpreted as a master class in how to make a more subversive, edgy military aesthetic entirely wearable — and impeccably polished. That's no easy feat when you consider how Gurung began crafting the Fall line — WWD reports that he took a very literal inspiration point from an article he read in Time about the U.S. military testing body armor specifically designed for women, after learning that the men's gear was hugely oversized for female troops. But after you've watched Prabal's own army of gorgeous crafted gowns (again, the designer's wheelhouse), sculptural peplum-trimmed jackets, ornate brocades, and sexy revelations of skin, it's hard to imagine that this was all born from the idea of military uniforms. There are the references, of course, to power and structure — and certainly the olive and navy palette draws from those uniforms — but Prabal's line is impossibly beautiful and sexy. There's attention to femininity and a woman's body in every detail — cinched waists, slit skirts, back and side cutouts, and sumptuous satins that flaunt and move with curves. Now we're waiting to see whether it will be Jennifer Lawrence or Anne Hathaway who snags one of the gowns to arm herself for the Oscars red carpet — and which style-setter will nab those buckled, knee-high gladiator heels first.
- Trends: Peplum, cutouts, slits, brocade, military-inspired outerwear, fur.
- Colors: Olive, navy, crimson, gold, and white.
- Shoes: Casadei for Prabal Gurung knee-high, buckled gladiator boots.
- Who should wear it: Strong, confident leading ladies. We'd be happy to see Jennifer Lawrence continue her Gurung streak on the red carpet in the final navy silk crepe, satin gown with that killer back.