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Runway Report: Jen Kao Spring 2010

Jen Kao lightened up fall's moody palette this season with a collection that largely stayed within neutral tones of rose, gray, and white. While colors were paler, Kao continued to please her tough-chic fans with cropped motorcycle jackets, geometric bustier dresses and sharp cut-outs. As Kao explained, "The collection is feminine, but still very structural. The clothes are free and draped, but still very complex in the way they are built."

The detailed construction was evident in the graphic paneling of a suede mini skirt, a silk kimono with chain embroidery, and a sharply tailored white suit with strong shoulders. Eddie Borgo cuffs and earrings were a nice hard-edged contrast to the collection, as were Tania Spinellie's chain mail fringe heels. Each inspired, according to Kao, by medieval face shields and all styled expertly by Keegan Singh.

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