As one of the most anticipated shows of the season — with a modified name, restructured logo, and, oh yeah, designer Hedi Slimane at the helm — it would be fair to say that Saint Laurent Spring '13 had some high expectations to live up to. Of course, it took all of half a second for us to remember why we've held Slimane in such high esteem since his days at Dior Homme. The proof was in his careful crafting and reverence to the label's legendary silhouettes, as much as it could be seen in his interpretation of Parisian-chic through an LA rock 'n' roll lens. The colorful evening caftan gowns were accented with long tassled necklaces and flowy capes, ultratailored silhouettes (we're taking superslim-cut trousers paired with and blazers) took on a more bohemian vibe via wide-brimmed floppy fedoras and loosely adorned bows, and the recognizable safari-chic dresses from seasons past came complete with sexy lace-up fronts and were finished with touches of Western-inspired fringe. From start to finish, there was an overwhelming sense of "cool" that couldn't be shaken — nor would you want to shake it — and while this debut collection from Slimane didn't override older notions of the iconic brand entirely, it certainly took aspects of Saint Laurent's past in a new, youthful direction.
- Trends: Slimmer-than-slim silhouettes, dramatic large floppy hats, embellishments of every kind (fringe, studs, sheer panels, tassels, bows, etc.), the caftan, and tailored blazers.
- Colors: Black, white, tan, brown, taupe, merlot red, and metallic gold — with a parade of red, blue, and purple at the show's end.
- Key Piece: The caftan-meets-ruffled color evening gowns — especially in that deep burgundy hue.
- Accessories: The essential platform pump, wide-brimmed hats, long tasseled necklaces, and floor-skimming capes.
- Who Should Wear It: Front-row attendees Kate Moss and Jessica Chastain will definitely do the collection justice. Moreover, we think Slimane's newly installed brand of bohemian cool has Nicole Richie and Rachel Zoe written all over it.