There was an Elizabethan feel to Simone Rocha’s London Fashion Week show, but don’t think that means you’ll be pulling on a Shakespearean ruff come September. The influences were more subtle than that; a jewelled neckline here, a golden embroidered cross there, or an exaggerated hip with v-shaped seaming drawing the eye towards a tiny Tudor waist. Fabrics varied from rich red tartans to wet-look black leathers, furs, and silks, and there was also some bright yellow reptile print thrown in.
Coats were definitely the key pieces, cut off above the knee with heavy ruffled panels running down sleeves (there’s your ruff). The later selection of evening dresses took their cue from historic wooden hooped petticoats in shades of pink or red in hatched combos of sheer and opaque. The show ended with two beautiful golden embroidered sheer dresses with asymmetric waist detail. Worn with flat shoes and gold leaf makeup, they were the perfect modern interpretation of glamour.