In a week of high-profile debuts (Wang at Balenciaga, Puglisi at Ungaro), there's been a lot of talk about going back to the archives. But Geraldo da Conceicao, who made his debut as creative director at Sonia Rykiel for Fall 2013, paid homage to the brand's founder while offering a new look for her house.
More on the new designer's debut show here.
Da Conceicao's show was heavy on the knitwear that has always been a Rykiel hallmark, but the mood of this show was a good deal sexier than it has been in past seasons. The designer said in an interview with WWD that he wanted to have "a certain conversation with the body," and he had it with a black sweater dress with flashes of pink and white over its model's erogenous zones, and with jumpers with what were essentially floral cutouts right over the breasts. But not every garment called attention so loudly. A double-breasted suit in pink hugged the curves without suffocating them, and a few leather dresses that managed to be slinky also stood out.