Stefano Pilati bid adieu to Yves Saint Laurent with a dark, sexy Fall 2012 in all moody iterations of womanly dress. There's both a sultry undercurrent and a definitive strength that runs throughout Pilati's finale. It's a give and take — boxier leather jackets and trousers, and sharp outerwear have as much of a place as slinky dresses and pencil skirts constructed in light-reflecting mesh. Even when Pilati zeroes in on more masculine construction, he never misses the mark of a woman — nearly every look is completed with a wide belt to accentuate the waist and plush fur accents are thrown effortlessly over shoulders. It's the kind of thing that — without being glaringly obvious — speaks to the power, the allure of a woman. It's not done up in bells and whistles, but you have a sense that it takes a certain kind of confidence to pull off the line's structured, streamlined white suit or ultralow necklines — and it's clear Pilati's florals are crafted for women, not girls.
- Trends: Leather, fur, boxy jackets, sharp suiting, gloves, florals, sequin-like mesh.
- Colors: Black, green, gold, white.
- Key Piece: The color-tinged, shimmering mesh on slinky evening dresses and pencil skirts.
- Accessories: Slick black boots, leather gloves, wide black belts, metallic pumps, sculptural wraparound flower chokers.
- Who Would Wear It: This is for the modern-glam; front-row fans like Salma Hayek.