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Review of Rust-Oleum Cabinet Transformations and Cabinet Refinishing Products

Refinish Your Kitchen Cabinets With One Easy Product

If I were to ask you, "Are you proud of your kitchen?" I would venture to guess that most of you would respond, "No." Considering that the average age of the American home in 35 years, many of you have may inherited an old kitchen with laminate floor tile and countertops or dingy, dated cabinetry that doesn't look exactly as you'd wish.

With home prices down 30 to 50 percent, most consumers are only buying what we need and can afford, but unfortunately, a kitchen renovation is not the most budget-friendly of expenses. The cost to replace your cabinets and countertops stands somewhere between $4,000 and $20,000, depending on whether you purchase stock supplies or have a custom kitchen built. To reface your cabinets, you can expect to pay between $1,000 and $6,000. And painting your cabinets will cost you around $200, but as anyone who has tried this will tell you, the paint will inevitably peel if you don't strip, sand, and prime beforehand — a lengthy process.

So what's the alternative? Luckily there's a new product on the market for refinishing wood, melamine, laminate, and a number of cabinet surfaces that doesn't require sanding, stripping, or priming! Better yet, it'll cost you as little as $80. Find out what it is when you read more!

Last month, I was invited to New Orleans by Rust-Oleum to learn about their new products Cabinet Transformations and Countertop Transformations (more on the latter later). I was able to try the product hands-on myself, so I really got a chance to see how it works and how easy it is to use. I thought I'd take you through all of the steps so you can get a feel for what's entailed.

What do you need?

Nearly everything you need to transform your cabinets is included in the kit aside from some household supplies like drop cloths, brushes, painter's tape, rags, and gloves. The kit contents include an instructional pamphlet and DVD, a deglosser, bond coat, decorative glaze, protective top coat, decorative glazing cloths, scrub pads, and stir sticks.

How it works:

Before you begin, remove all of the doors to your cabinets, and keep track of which hardware goes where to save you time and a headache when you're finished. Line up all of the cabinets in a Ford-style factory line, so you can apply each step to all of them before moving onto the next. Put on a pair of disposable gloves.

The first step is apply the deglosser to the surface using a scrub pad. It only takes a couple minutes per cabinet door.

Next up, wipe off the deglosser using a rag.

Using a paint brush, apply the bond coat to the inset and edges of your cabinets if you have them.

Then, apply the bond coat to the whole cabinet panel. This coat is available in 24 different colors in the dark kit and 11 different colors in the light kit, and it can even be tinted to match a specific paint color you have in mind. The color also will not fade and the coat resists scratching and chipping, so it is much, much more durable than regular paint! This is one of the major advantages if you are considering just painting instead.

Next up, you have an optional step of applying a decorative glaze, which gives it an antique or patina-ed look by enhancing the wood grain. You can apply as much or as little as you want — in just the corners or to the whole surface.

The decorative glaze stays wet and open longer, so once you apply it, you can wipe off excess with a rag, or remove and add more as you wish. You'll want to use the first glazed door as a guide for all of the rest so that they look the same.

For the last step, apply the protective top coat with a paint brush to seal it! This coat is stain- and scratch-resistant, tack-free (so it won't be sticky), nonyellowing, and has a satin finish. The brand hopes to offer other finishes like matte and high-gloss in the future. The coat also handles tough household cleaners.

What's good to know:

  • You can take your cabinets from currently dark to light or from light to dark, whatever you want! And you don't need to prime them.
  • Rust-Oleum Cabinet Transformations is available in two sizes: Small ($80), which is ideal for 100-square-foot kitchens, and Large ($150), which is ideal for 200-square-foot kitchens.
  • To refinish all of your kitchen cabinetry, the steps will probably take longer than a weekend to complete. But compared to the alternatives, like stripping or having your whole kitchen renovated, there is much less downtime, and it's not so much of an invasion, as you can do this in your garage.
  • You can even use the product on interior moldings, furniture, and other wood, melamine, or laminate furnishings. If you're looking to paint an old table or chest, this will protect your pieces from dings and scratches much better than paint would.
  • One drawback is that there are currently no physical color samples that you can take home with you. So I'd recommended bringing swatches of your interior wall paint into the shop to compare or have your base coat tinted to the exact shade that you want.
  • There's also a satisfaction guarantee. So if when you've finished and you're unhappy with the outcome, you'll get a full refund.
  • You can learn more details, see before and after photos, and virtually visualize your makeover on Rust-Oleum's Cabinet Transformations website.
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jcat197 jcat197 3 years
I left a comment here over a year ago about how Home Depot refused to tint the kit with a color of my choice and then Rustoleum refused to give me any swatches or samples after I contacted them. I decided not to use the kit in case the teenie, tiny thumbnail on the box was faded, etc. The good news, GREAT news really, is that my sister coached me long distance on the phone that I could do it myself by scrubbing the doors with TSP, (a lot of scubbing for the 40 years of grease). Hand sanded with sand paper. Primed with something like Kilz or Zinzer Bin (it was a year ago, can't remember exactly, sorry), we made sure it would stick to the cheapskate, fake dark wood-look laminate. Sanded again, primed again. At the same time, we had to hire a craftsman to repair our 1920's decorative plaster in the livingroom. So I asked him if he had any tips for me and he said we could just pay his worker a day's labor an he would spray it for us since we did all the prep and bought the paint. So two coats of my desired, gorgeous color by Benjamin Moore in a "Pearl" finish sprayed inside the cabinets as well as the doors. No top coat needed. So the color is pure and perfect. A year later they still look FABulous. I could have done it myself with a roller, but we were already elbow deep in rubble, so the help seemed well worth it. A month later I touched up some big nicks from a fridge moving disaster and it has lasted beautifully. If Rustoleum or Home Depot had been willing to help with the color seletion I would've bought their product, but now I am SO happy I did it mysel, more thoroughly, and with a way better paint color!
Charlyle Charlyle 3 years
Well, just finished step 1 of my cabinet makeover using a Rustoleum product. I was confused after reading some of these comments. Then it dawned on me--Rustoleum actually has 2 different products they sell for cabinet renewing. Rustoleum Cabinet Transformation 9 pc kit seemed more like painting the cabinets and would not allow wood grain to show--it was $79 (to do 100sq feet) at Home Depot (I went to a Home Depot workshop on it & the demonstrator didn't even know they had 2 types). The one I bought is called Rustoleum Cabinet Transformations Wood Refinishing system (Home Depot $50 for 100sq feet of cabinets). It has a cleaner in it, a base tint (they tint the base according to your current cabinet color-- they can only match your current color or lighten one shade or darken one shade. And 2 cans of Top Coat. Also it must be used with wood. My progress so far I spent 1 day cleaning the cabinets with TSP (sold at Home Depot) in warm water with a fine steel wool--go with the grain--no circular or diagonal movement or it will scratch. I did this step because the folks who used to live here did an awful lot of frying & knew they were really dirty. Day 2 was spent using the Rustoleum cleaner (step 1). I watched the DVD on loop whilst I cleaned everything-- hoping to get it right. Tomorrow I will start step 2--the tint--on the video it looks pretty straight forward. It seems like it goes on like a stain because you apply with a cloth & wipe off the excess. I think what makes it different than a stain is that it is more of a translucent paint. I am calling Rustoleum before I start this step to ask how to avoid the pink/orange problem some people mentioned (although I suspect that only happens with the $79 kit). I will for sure let you know how the customer service treats me. I will also post how step 2 & 3 go.
kipspop kipspop 4 years
Just finished our kitchen with 18 cupboard doors and 5 drawers.  Had more than enough deglosser, base coat and top coat and just enough glaze.  The glaze was a bear on large surfaces but everything came out great.  Happy with product. 
Shannon2456756 Shannon2456756 4 years
We purchased the Rust-Oleum Cabinet Transformation kit for $99 at Busy Beaver.  THEN I read the reviews on it and became very nervous.  Some reviews were good, some not so good. AFTER finishing the project, I have come to the conclusion that the not so good reviews came from people that did not know what they were doing.The kit we purchased was the light color kit and we had it tinted the River Birch color. (Our cabinets were VERY dark before we did this.) It covers 200 square feet.  I'll start by telling you what extra's you will have to buy...you need 3 GOOD 2 inch paint brushes (ours cost about $7 a piece), 4 drop cloths, 2 inch GOOD painters tape(because it will need to be on the wall for a few days), lint free cloths(we bought rags at Walmart that were actually a bag of tshirts cut up and whole), 3 disposable paint containers, GOOD disposable rags...at least 40 of them if 2 people are doing it(unless you plan on doing the steps NONSTOP which would take hours).     The day before we officially started the project, Greg removed all the doors from all the cabinets, plus all of the hardware.   I filled the sink with soapy water and went over EVERY single cabinet and doors removing dirt and grease.  When doing this, pay special attention to the doors above and by your stove...there was grease CAKED in the grooves of my doors. This took me about 3 hours to do.  ***TIP*** A very information FILLED DVD comes with the kit..make sure you watch it before and even during like we did. One of the tips that it suggested that we did not agree with was to take pieces of wood and put dry wall nails in them and then put the doors on the nails so they did not lay flat. My husband cut up a NOODLE used in swimming pools..sliced it in small even sections. We put one under each corner and it worked perfectly...kept them perfectly elevated without putting dings or dents in our doors from the nails.     The first step from the kit is to apply a DeGlosser.  We put 2 long tables in our rec room, with drop cloths under them and disposable table cloths on them.  We laid the doors on the tables and what was left UNDER the tables. The DeGlosser is a soapy mixture that gets all the grease, dirt and grime from your cabinets while taking all the shine off them in the process.  The kit comes with plenty of cleaning sponges to use for this step. You squirt a good amount of the DeGlosser on the sponge and then vigorously scrub the door, then immediately take a damp lint free rag and wipe off all the soap and finish with a dry lint free rag. Do this for each and every door (front and back) and all the outer surfaces of the cabinets.  Allow this to dry for at least an hour before starting step 2. FYI, this step took us the entire first day...this step is the most important. IF you don't get the grease and dirt off, the paint will not stick properly.  This step is VERY time consuming. BEFORE BEGINNING THE 2nd STEP..TAPE OFF ALL THE AREAS AROUND THE CABINETS. WE ALSO TAPED PLASTIC ONTO THE COUNTERTOPS TO COVER THEM COMPLETELY. Step 2 is the Bond Coat....the bond coat will be the paint this is tinted if you buy the kit that needs tinted.  You paint this on just as you would a normal paint. We worked on the cabinets and then the doors.  Using the good paint brushes, make sure you try to paint in the direction of the wood grain.  While the fronts of the doors were drying, we put a 2nd coat on the cabinets.  YOU CANNOT USE A PAINT ROLLER FOR THIS STEP. When the front of the doors were dry for at least a couple hours, we flipped them over and painted the back of the doors. Make sure you get 2 coats on everything. We let the bond coat dry overnight before going on to the next step. IF you have decorative doors (arches), make sure that the paint does not run. We had that problem in our arches but thankfully caught most of them before they were dry completely. The paint would pool in the corners and need spread out. Regardless, you want to watch for runs.     Step 3 is the Glaze step and they consider this step optional.  IF you want your cabinets to look painted and not have the wood look, then skip this step. On the box and online there are examples for EVERY shade with and without the glaze.  A lot of the reviews we read said that there was not enough Glaze in the kits. The glaze is not something you can just go buy at the store either. THAT made me very nervous. BUT after starting this step, we quickly realized what the problem was. When putting the paint brush in the glaze, just put the tip of the brush in and start with that. The glaze GOES A LONG WAY. I would imagine that people are putting this on very thick.  We would put some on and then spread it EVERYWHERE.  Make sure you get the glaze in every crevice. The glaze is very runny...make sure you catch where it pools and spread it out. THE NEXT STEP IS VERY IMPORTANT. We suggest that ONE person takes the glaze off. My husband took the glaze off the first door and I just didn't like it. I took it off the 2nd door and we decided that I would be the one to do it. The reason just one person needs to do this step is so that all the doors and cabinets look alike. In the kit, there are special rags to take the glaze off. Put 2 together and fold them just so. WITH GLOVES ON, take the rag and wipe the glaze off IN THE DIRECTION OF THE WOOD GRAIN. Use less or more pressure depending on how dark you want your cabinets. We kept the glaze in the corners and on the edges to give the doors a more antique look. Do not do more than one door at a time, the glaze dries VERY quickly and once it does there's not much you can do. IF you take too much off and don't want it so light, just add more then and take it back off again. As long as you use it all sparingly and spread it out..it will go a LONG WAY. We just did basic glazing techniques...if you go to the Rust-Oleum website there are different ways to do this process. OK, the glazing has to be done on all the cabinets and the doors (front and back). Before you can flip the doors, the side you glazed needs to be COMPLETELY DRY. We did the front of our doors first. When doing th other side be VERY EXTRA CAREFUL that the glaze does not run onto the side that is already done. Let the doors and cabinets set for 8 hours (overnight) so that the glaze can dry completely. NOW you're ALMOST DONE!! :)       Step 4 is to put the Protective Clear Top Coat on. I let my husband do this step because reviews online showed that this step could cause problems. One review stated that it dried very foamy looking on the edges.  We didn't have that problem at all....the kit does stress that you do not go over an area that you already painted the top coat on. We ended up with a lot of the top coat left....not sure if maybe we should've done another coat, but it didn't mention to. Allow the top coat to dry at least 12 hours before putting the doors back on. Ours dried very quickly and was not tacky at all.   
Bewk Bewk 4 years
We bought this product to refinish our cabinets since new cabinets were too expensive.  The deglosser did not work.  It was time consuming with no results  The cabinets were still shiny.  I contacted Rustoleum, and they said I could sand them instead with 220 sandpaper.  It was so much faster than the deglosser step.  I then applied the bond coat.  We chose white for our cabinet color.  It was like water and appeared as if I had only primed the cabinet.  The second coat went on the same way.  You could see every brush mark, and it still looked primed.  I applied a third coat, and the cabinet still does not look painted like the video shows.  Now I don't know if I should continue wasting time with applying more coats or just throw in the towel and get some other kind of paint that will not look like primer.  In reading other reviews, I am hesitant about putting on the top coat because it turned their cabinets a peach/pink color.  Does anyone have any suggestions?
midgradesteacher midgradesteacher 4 years
I used this product last week to refinish the cabinets in my kitchen.  I had no trouble at Home Depot getting the base coat tinted.  I brought it home and scrubbed and scrubbed and scrubbed my cabinets with the deglosser then thoroughly rinsed them.  This was a very very time consuming and sweat inducing step. I then waited overnight for them to dry and applied three coats of the base coat.  Two was not sufficient to completely cover the dark brown stain applied by a previous owner.  After the last coat, I let it dry overnight and was pretty pleased with the effect.  I did not use the glaze because I wanted white cabinets.  I then applied the top coat.  As it dried, it turned PINK in spots!  Any thicker areas have a peachy and yellowish hue to them.  They are not even at all.  All was fine until I applied this final coat.  It has been two days and it is definitely still peach-ish in spots and any drips/runs (oops) are also pink.  I am out of time so I can't re-do them right now.  I plan to sand them down though and use primer and regular paint next.     I have not called rustoleum yet but I plan to to see if I can get my money back.  I imagine that if the glaze was applied the pinkish hue would not be noticeable.   They definitely look better than they did...if you don't look too closely.
oma123 oma123 4 years
I am considering using this product after finding out how much it will cost to replace my 30+ year old kitchen cabinets.  They have been painted numerous times and I hate the way they look.  Also has anyone used the product for countertops?
shoewoman shoewoman 4 years
i was wondering if a Crackle Glaze could be used and if so when?
jcat197 jcat197 4 years
I asked the paint dept at Home Depot if they would tint a color for me that was not in the kit. They said they couldn't do it. I spoke to the manager who confirmed they can't do it. Then I emailed Rustoleum explaining to them that Home Depot was refusing to tint with color outside of the kit. I also explained to Rustoleum that without swatches I can't paint my whole kitchen based on a tiny thumbnail on a box that may or may not have faded, etc. I was actually very surprised when they got back to me stating Home Depot was right. Cabinet transformations can not be tinted with colors outside of the kit and that they do not have any swatches...ummm...that's it? Really? What terrible customer service! LOL!
KelliD1791 KelliD1791 4 years
I bought this product to refinish a crib it was nice and easy and looks awesome. We used the decorative glaze, it really dresses it up. The crib was a medium oak in color. I suggest when choosing a color you go one shade darker. We chose Cocoa but it looks more like Gunstock without the decorative glaze. Great product!
kencab kencab 4 years
My husband and I used this product on our kitchen cabinets. It took us a week to finish the cabinets. We have lots of cabinets so it was about running out of space to work on the cabinets because of drying time between steps. It turned out great. It can be time consuming because of drying time but it's easy and looks great! I went to a class at Home Depot and that helped with my confidence to go forward with it. Watch the video, read instructions, and also go to class. In class, they had old and messed up cabinets and we made them look great.
malee1450 malee1450 4 years
I decided to post on here because one day in my home improvement store i saw this kit and had just purchased a condo which desperately needed updating. I came home right after I saw the kit to read up on the reviews and was so dissapointed, many people had negative comments. But after looking at what it would cost for me to buy new cabinets I know it would be worth it to at least try. It only took me 2 days to complete this ... I do have a small kitchen only 18 cabinets ... But the results are an amazingly fresh look, I am so pleased and $80 later so is my wallet. The top coat can be tricky because it is thin so you have to go slow to prevent drip marks but any you do find can be touched up with some additional base coat. I strongly reccomened this
Bstargell Bstargell 5 years
This is the second time that I have used Rustoleum on cabinets. The first time I used the this product I had no problems at all and the finished product was awesome. I used the dark kit and had plenty of everything, it was A LOT of work but was impressed with the final product so was well worth it. It took almost 2 weeks to complete. However someone in my family asked me if I would do her cabinets in her condo. She had bought the light kit with the bright white base coat. We had purchased two kits to complete her entire kitchen. We first did the cabinets and I took the doors to my house to so that I would have plenty of room to paint and let them dry. After letting the doors dry I had went to touch up a few spots on the cabinets at her house only to see they were TWO different colors. I brought a door over to compare and it was two different colors as I had suspected. I took another stain out of the box to find yet a third color. (All three cans were stirred and shaken very well before applying to the cabinets.) I returned to home depot with my door to show 2 different colors and a picture of the third color. They agreed something was wrong. After checking several kits and finding most had two different stain colors inside they called customer service to explain the problem, that is the moment I decided I WILL NEVER BUY THIS PRODUCT AGAIN!! The customer service rep was anything but appropriate. He argued with the home depot employees that there was no way there could be multiple stain colors because all kits had one stain reguardless of the color of the kit. He then told them they werent mixing it up good enough.(I think the machine that shakes the paint and stirring it with a paint stick should do the job) He then gets on the phone with me telling me I did the cabinets wrong and if I wanted my cabinets fixed I would have to buy another kit. I explained I was not spending another $160.00 (2 more kits) to fix a problem that was not my fault. He then told me I was not getting any free product to fix the problem. After continuing to talk to me like I was an idiot and being hateful I gave the phone back to the home depot employee where she listened to just how he was talking to me. She agreed that he was completely out of line and his demeanor was not called for at all. Luckily she helped me find enough matching stain to cover all of my cabinets and doors... I would not recommend this product because customer service is the worst I've ever experienced in my life!
J53M4T11 J53M4T11 5 years
I'm sorry, but I can't stand by and let your site mislead people. It appears you have no real experience in cabinet refinishing and took your information from an expense paid Rustoleum seminar. Here is some real truth: First, it doesn't cost $200 to refinish 100 to 200 square feet, but you will be charged that by Rustoleum. Second, there is nothing magic in their kits. Using TSP, "liquid sandpaper," a good primer, stain, and a good satin finish paint, you can do as much or more for less cost. And, if you have 130 square feet? That's $150. It's just outrageous.
natlady natlady 5 years
I have been working on my project for a bit just stared putting the product on looks great do I need to put the glaze coat on looking for a up to date look> Does the glazing make it look antuqe . Doing mine in kora. I also did a lot more prep, then it calls for i did sand the de glazing seemed like it was doing nothing cabinets are 40 yrs old and poly coating was much harder. I am doing them my self and completely taking mine time I think that is good for job. I also rust O. stainless steel spray and sprayed the hinges instead of buying new to keep the cost down..
HUE-B HUE-B 5 years
I and my wife have redone several pieces of furniture and more than one house in the last several years and the two best words I can say about this product is Never again!! This product is not even close to what was represented in the advertising. I wish I had read the reviews before wasting several days of mine and my wife's time. The only good thing I can say about the product is that the color did match what we expected. The glaze disappears rapidly and there is not nearly enough to do even half of a small kitchen. The top coat is horrible, not laying in evenly, seemingly swelling and leeching into clobs and knots of a white pasty goo, leaving the surfaces looking partially finished, even after several coats with several hours of drying in between. Please save your time and money and if you are considering this product at least look into paint and polyurethane first as it is much easier, much more reliable and certainly has a far better outcome. The money was one thing, but oh my goodness the time and labor we wasted makes me sick to my stomach. We are returning the remaining product to Lowes whether they want it back or not and will procede with normal sanding, painting and urethaning as we should have done to begin with.
IrishArt IrishArt 5 years
Ok, just purchased the big kit and watched the dvd. Gone ahead and drew diagram and numbered/lettered doors and drawers, plus set up work station in gargage. Have a Wagner spracer that I've never used so will practice before using on this project. I'm retired so have enough "free" time to get it done right - just need to pace myself and not rush. Now to take the doors off - I'll post more as i go.
judih judih 5 years
After reading all these comments I went ahead with this project. It took about a week to get it done. My kitchen is large and I used the bit kit, dark finish. I was mindful about comments people made on the glaze and there was more than enough of everything to do a 200 ft kitchen. You spread the glaze thin and then wipe off. People may be putting too much on and so they run out. The one problem we ran into is the finish coat. It dries VERY quickly and if you are not watching it may drip and dry whitish on the edges. Rather than redoing these doors we took a furniture pen and were able to cover the whitish areas and get the sides to match the fronts. It all looked really, really good. I recommend the product. Be sure to use the organizational techniques they suggest such as drawing a diagram of the kitchen and putting the hardware in numbered cups. Good luck.
Phx-Agent Phx-Agent 5 years
Love this product. Just take your time and follow the directions.
lizly lizly 5 years
@CinPHX, it couldn't hurt to contact Rustoleum and see if you can get reimbursed for another package. It seems like they're still working out the kinks.
CinPHX CinPHX 5 years
I'm using this product now. It's clear that I'm going to need 3 coats of the base, not 2 as suggested, to go from medium brown to white. Bummer. It's extremely thick paint so it doesn't go far, or maybe it's the heat in Phoenix that is making it thick. I don't intend using the glaze and I'm a little irritated at paying for glaze and cloths I don't need. Since I'm needing 3 coats of base, I'll need to buy another entire package. Why can't they just sell this stuff in individual packages, it's not rocket science. De-glaze, base, top coat. How difficult is that? I don't mind paying for a quality product but I do object to paying for optional items I won't use.
Wayne456 Wayne456 5 years
Have 9 drawers and 25 doors in my kitchen. Bought the smaller kit and had enough supplies except for the glaze, although I did have to redo about a third of the doors... (What’s this about a refund??) I had my wife and son involved but got tired of the redos so finally just did it myself. (grrrr!) One comment BEFORE you buy: this is essentially a PAINT JOB. Don’t expect your cabinets to look like real wood. Mine turned out “woodsy” (mostly because of the glaze) but if you’re a wood aficionado go buy wood cabinets. (My wife was surprised that the wood look didn’t come through even after she watched the DVD.) Suggestions: 1. Take their advice and NUMBER your doors and drawers. (Blue painter's tape.) Use plastic bags for hardware. I don't think it's as critical to number the hardware but we did just to be safe. 2. Do your "application" steps in an environment where you will avoid a lot of traffic. We've got dogs and I spent time peeling off hair and other airborne particles. 3 .Wear skin tight gloves (latex or optionals if you're allergic.) Every fingerprint is a smudge and if you want your project to look right you want to avoid all smudges. (I used baby powder to get them on easier but you then have to be careful about stray powder falling on your project. Wasn't really an issue.) Also saves a lot of paint on your hands… not so much the arms elbows, stomach or seat of the pants where you bump into wet doors. 4. Buy a box of the disposable Scott rags when you buy the kit. They are indispensable. 5. When de-glossing, do about half a large door at a time then wipe off with a wet rag. You don't want the gloss to firm up or reset. After wiping with a wet rag I then went back over with a dry rag. Showed up any leftover gloss. (Our cabinets were well over 10 yr old so there wasn’t much gloss left.) 6. Do the insides first. I painted them but didn’t use the glaze on the insides. A noticeable difference but once I open a cabinet door I’m more interested with what’s in the cabinet than what’s on the inside of the door. (And we’re selling the house so if THEY want it inside THEY can go buy another kit!) 7. ALWAYS wipe off the “other” side of the doors when you’ve finished an edge. Doesn’t eliminate all drip accumulations but drastically cuts down on them. 8. After you’ve painted a door or drawer and moved on, come back to it in 10-15 minutes and look at it again. Draw the paint brush through paint accumulation mounds, drips or other problems while it’s all still wet. Look for bubbles in your paint and use the paint brush to eliminate or they will be a problem. This step DRASTICALLY improved my outcomes and helped reduce the re-dos while also addressing any spots that I’d actually missed the first time. 9. For all base coats (after the first one) start with a nice sharp pen knife. Remove dried drip accumulations, popped bubbles, or other unwanted squatters. (Where do these things come from?) I used the knife to “scrape” most of the problems away although I did have to “cut” some stuff. 10. I used the base and protective coats right out of the cans with no issues. I poured the glaze into plastic jar tops (peanut butter, mayonnaise, etc.) (Wife hasn’t noticed any change of taste in the peanut butter although there’s been some comments about the color of the mayonnaise.) 11. When using the glaze, use end to end stokes with the cheesecloth. If you start/stop in the middle of the door/drawer it looks weird. Fold edges of cloth under or they will snag. 12. Make SURE you do edges last and again, cloth strokes should be from end to end. CHECK them or you may have to repaint and redo. 13. I did a minimum of 2 base coats and 2 protective coats. (Lots of extra base coats but plenty of paint.) I let each protective coat dry for at least 24 hours. This was not a minor project nor was it quick. If you are going to do this right plan on it taking some time. For example I spent around 3-4 hours applying one coat of base to just half the doors. (No bubbles and all corners were smooth.) Add in prep time, pen knife use and cussing time and our project took us about 3 weeks. (Not sunup to sunset.) The outcome was not a top of the line set of wood cabinets but I was very pleased with it. Would recommend to anyone who doesn’t want to buy new. Just be prepared for the time. And the funny colored mayonnaise.
lizly lizly 5 years
This was a wonderful product. I completed it in 2 weeks with my husband and I working after work and a little bit on the weekends, I used Castle grey for the bottom cabinets and Pure White for the top. And did not use the glaze. We had to do 4 coats of white on the top to cover our dark cabinets but we expected that. If you take your time, watch the video, and take care you too will be pleased with the outcome. Especially compared to doing it without a kit not to mention the price alone. A few of the things I love the most is that they are not one bit sticky and you can still see the wood grain texture. Watch this video, we used the setup with the hooks for this project and it was really handy. Also pay attention to the way they layoff the paint. http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/0,,20305373,00.html
jajajeal jajajeal 5 years
DO NOT buy this product. I am a proficient DIYer and I am upset and so disappointed with this Rustoleum product. As someone else said, the dripping is a problem, not enough glaze, and the top coat is horrible. I have places that don't look like they have even had a top coat...Rustoleum told me that I had to sand them down and redo them. It would have been easier to just paint them and put a top coat on...SO VERY DISAPPOINTED. Also, Rustoleum was no help at all. It makes me sick to look at the cabinets and all of the work that I have put into them, and to have them not look good.
acurigliano acurigliano 5 years
My boyfriend and I are thinking about buying this product. Has anyone used it on laminate cabinets? It seems a lot of reviews are from wood cabinets and we are unsure how ours will turn out.
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