Anna Wintour

>> The way that director RJ Cutler cut his new trailer for The September Issue, which covers the making of Vogue's September 2007 issue — its biggest ever — makes it like a real-life Devil Wears Prada. In this two and a half minute montage alone, Anna Wintour is revered and feared enough to carry us until movie's country-wide Sept. 11 release date. No sooner than Thakoon Panichgul proclaims "Anna is like Madonna," the editor herself is telling a disappointed-looking Oscar de la Renta at a runthrough, "I personally would not put this one in the show, the others things you've shown us are more exciting."  She scolds Mario Testino about his September 2007 cover mockups with Sienna Miller: "This type seems so large and pretentious, it looks like it's for blind people."  And even Karl Lagerfeld looks nervous as Anna inspects a new Chanel piece, eventually proclaiming, "It's gorgeous."

Among her own staff, Anna is just as blunt — of one mockup: "She looks pregnant." Grace Coddington excitedly holds up a neon pink and black Fall 2007 Comme des Garcons jacket from a rack for Anna: "Look!"  Not missing half a beat, Anna smiles: "No."  And in a meeting with stylist Edward Enninful, she looks at his work for the magazine and declares: "Where's the glamour? It's Vogue, okay? Please, let's lift it." No wonder the movie is inspiring bootleg viewing parties among editors — and Anna to supposedly have her underlings monitor the movie's Facebook page for her.

The trailer! »

>> On Friday, it was announced that Vogue's director of special events, Stephanie Winston Wolkoff, had resigned with no replacement named. Today, Fashion Week Daily reports that insiders are buzzing about the future of the Costume Institute Gala — Winston Wolkoff organized the event for the past decade.

According to one source, "Events budgets have been slashed across the board at Conde. The Costume Institute has got to be the company's most expensive event, and Stephanie built it into what it is today. It makes no sense to pass it off to someone else."

This year's event brought in $2 million less than the previous year, with a number of fashion brands declining to sponsor tables due to the economy.  At this time last year, we already had clues about the designer co-host and theme for the upcoming Costume Institute Gala, but so far, there has been nothing about the 2010 event.  FWD suggests that "perhaps just cocktails are in order," but the Gala is still Anna Wintour's party, and it doesn't seem like her to let go without a fight.

>> INSIDER WIRE —Vogue documentary The September Issue was originally scheduled to open in the US on Sept. 11, but those in New York will have the chance to see it a week earlier: the film opens in Manhattan on August 28, expands in the New York area on Sept. 4, and then opens in the top 15 markets countrywide on Sept. 11. The film will be widely available worldwide (full list of countries here), according to director RJ Cutler: “When we went to Sundance [Film Festival], people said that the one thing you had to brace yourself for is that there won’t be sales overseas. But now we’re going everywhere but China.”  He couldn't confirm whether Anna Wintour will do press for the film, but said that he expects that she will do some “depending on the opportunity.” [IndieWire]

>> Matthew Williamson and Burberry are both returning to London Fashion Week for its 25th anniversary during the Spring 2010 season, and now Pringle of Scotland is, too.  It's all part of the plan that Harold Tillman, chairman of the British Fashion Council, has actuated to create more buzz around London's Fashion Week, and he's not planning on stopping with just those three: “There are talks going on with other big names who we’re confident will come back. I want us to be the number-one destination for international press and buyers.”

Does that mean we could see Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, or Gareth Pugh back in London — or maybe all three?  The hopes are that all the returners will bring the international press — including Anna Wintour, who usually sits out LFW — back to London with them.  And the efforts might be working: Matthew Williamson's spokeswoman hinted that the designer is considering staying in London after September: “I think that the way the British Fashion Council is reworking LFW will see lots of people coming back. London has been pigeonholed as being about new, young designers and people don’t attend because they wait to see how these designers will develop. The return of some established brands will change that perception.”

>> While Karl Lagerfeld is preparing for the Chanel Fall 2009 couture show on July 7 — which he plans to hold at sunset in the Grand Palais — rumors are swirling about his future at the company. Although he has said in the past that he doesn't plan to retire, it's circling that he will not renew his contract at Chanel, that Alber Elbaz will take his place, and Olivier Theyskens will take Alber's place at Lanvin.

Diane Pernet says both choices "make perfect sense" to her, but why would Alber, who has brought Lanvin profit through wearable clothes, be replaced with Olivier Theyskens, who is hardly known for wearable designs?  Anna Wintour is close friends with Karl Lagerfeld — but close enough to convince him to step down so she can find placement for Olivier Theyskens?

Diane also adds that she heard that Schiaparelli, which is expected to relaunch next year at earliest, has decided to switch directions and focus on a less expensive line.

>> INSIDER WIRE —Bruce Weber popped up Tuesday to be honored alongside Liya Kebede at a gala in memory of former Vogue photographer Gordon Parks, marking his first time in New York after an extended absence. “I’ve been traveling on the road a lot and this is my first time back in the city, so I’m a little in shock. I have six dogs so we’re traveling and I’ve met some real American characters.”  He was apparently in a jovial mood, and expressed his adoration for Kate Moss: “I photographed her when she first came here. It was her first job, and we’ve traveled a lot together. I really love her as a friend.” [Modelinia]

>> Andre Leon Talley has been eliciting remarks for the rose-hued Prada coat and "raspberry velvet" custom-made Manolo Blahnik sandals he's been wearing around town to the resort shows — Diane von Furstenberg's and Oscar de la Renta's among them — but he had some remarks of his own on the 60 Minutes profile of Anna Wintour.

"I was really impressed with their research," Andre told Mediabistro yesterday, adding that he found reporter Morley Safer to be "a bit dismissive" of fashion and its players, particularly when he likened Karl Lagerfeld to Dracula — "He's had that look for eight years!"  As for Anna's thoughts on the piece, Andre said that she was "thrilled. It's 60 Minutes — she was on the same show as Secretary Gates. It was fabulous."

Other things that are "fabulous" »

>> INSIDER WIRE —Plenty of news about the comings and goings at Vogue this morning: a staffer may have contracted swine flu, warns an internal memo sent out this morning; Steven Klein just shot another horse-centric editorial — this time for the August 2009 issue; and despite rumors to the contrary, it sounds like Rihanna won't be making the cover of Vogue anytime soon — her chances were ruined by a recent set of revealing photographs. [Daily Intel, AP, The Insider]

>> INSIDER WIRE —More rumors have hit that Anna Wintour is looking for a place in the Obama administration — possibly as ambassador to Britain — but a rep denies them, and we can likely chalk it up to the fact that she has contract negotiations coming up.  But it sounds like the Anna situation isn't the only thing Si Newhouse is about to have on his plate: New York's Monday cover story — online Sunday night at 10 pm — is titled "Si Newhouse's Dream Factory" and the teaser reads: "Conde Nast's own stars compare their glossy empire to the MGM of Old Hollywood, but no one would wish it the same fate. What happens to a magazine empire built on glossy fantasies when harsher realities intrude?" [Page Six, FWD]