For Spring 2009 head to toe nude looks are back and better than ever. Ralph Rucci, Carmen Marc Valvo, Tommy Hilfiger, Aurelio Costarella, Chris Han, Anna Sui, Milly by Michelle Smith, Doo Ri, Catherine Holstein, Calvin Klein, Proenza Schouler, Thakoon, Chris Benz all went for trend.
The first rays of cool sunlight after a long dark winter is one of our favorite colors, clearly we aren't the only ones as that washed out barely there yellow light found its way into several Spring 2009 collections. Chris Han, Thuy, Mara Hoffman, Carmen Marc Valvo, and Tommy Hilfiger played with diffused yellows on the runway.
The black day dress seems a strange staple for a Spring 2009 runway and yet it kept popping up on runway after runway, as if to say things are a bit dire so maybe a conservative frock will get the attention of concerned buyers? Our gallery showcasing the trend includes Ralph Rucci, Carmen Marc Valvo, Badgley Mischka, Zac Posen, Aurelio Costarella, Vera Wang, Chris Han, Anna Sui, Richard Chai, Joanna Mastroianni, Dennis Basso, Derek Lam, Iodice, Rock and Republic, and Nicole Miller
Its all just a case of history repeating, some is fashion, some is fad, some is good, some is bad and now we are going to stop quoting lyrics at you. Except that for Spring 2009 we feel so Bohemian Like You. If next season is going to be yet another summer of love (because who has the money but do anything but hang in the park?) then Diane Von Furstenberg, Sabyasachi, Mara Hoffman, Chris Han, Vera Wang, Nicole Miller, Ann Sui, Marc Jacobs, Rosa Cha, Catherine Holstein, Rebecca Taylor, and Matthew Williamson all have suitably happy hippy, magpie, flouncey outfits to get you started.
The Chris Han woman grows more mysterious by the season as Han's line continues to mature into a vision of soft etheral dressing. Inspired by water nymphs, this chiffon heavy collection is our favorite to date. Please check out our video interview and runway footage of the show.
Chris Han just showed in the tents to a booming applause from the audience. Han, who took a bow with tears of joy running down her face, told us backstage that her Spring 2009 collection was something she was more proud of than ever. We couldn't agree more. The collection, which stuck with Han's signature ethereal aesthetic, showed tie-dyed print gowns which were so finely gathered that it was hard to believe they weren't one of a kind. The closing exit, a black chiffon gown with a jewel encrusted bodice was so unbelievably special, we actually pondered the idea of wearing black on our wedding day (only in New York would such a thing be deemed acceptable). We'll be bringing you a video interview and photo gallery shortly and, until then, check out our pre-Fashion Week interview with the designer.
To celebrate the kick off of New York Fashion Week we've produced five teaser videos for the Spring 09 season. Last week, amid the inevitable chaos of designers and their pr offices, we snuck in and said hello to some of our favorite New York designers. That is Jerry Tam of Form, Ashleigh Verrier, Steinunn Sigurd of Steinunn, Chris Han, and Brandy Lunsford of Harlan Bel. In the teasers you'll discover a glimpse of the inspiration behind their collections and what each designer does to prepare for Fashion Week. When the time comes, we'll be posting their respective Spring 09 fashion shows (or presentations) and a little backstage action to boot.
It seems our photo shoot with Wayne Lui, Haunted, has caused a mid-week stir in the blogue community. Coutorture network partner, Platinum Blonde Life, made a collage of the images, while photography bound sites like Live Journal and Dream Attack republished the shoot and stirred up a few commenting frenzies.
Links:
Haunted by Wayne Liu
Interview With Wayne Liu
Chris Han Spring 2008 in Haunted
We also have impressive designer video interviews and original editorial spreads. May we cordially suggest perusing our selection? Enjoy New York Fashion Week Designer Video Interviews from Oscar De La Renta, Donna Karan for DKNY,Michael Kors, Isaac Mizrahi, Nicole Miller, Erin Fetherston, Ashleigh Verrier , Adam Lippes, James Coviello, John Varvatos , Monique Lhuillier, Joanna Mastroianni, Tory Burch, Neeam Khan
Wayne Liu is a photographer, born in Taiwan, who currently resides in New York. An exhibition of his work, entitled, "China, You Are A Luck Star" is currently showing at Chelsea Market. In his show, he captures the landscape of modern China, using black and white film. This week, on Coutorture, Liu shot garments from the Chris Han Spring/ Summer 2008 collection without any direction from us, save for the styling. Our interview with Liu, below.
Can you tell us a little bit about your background and how you first became interested in photography?
I studied cinema for one year in Taiwan but dropped out because I didn’t feel right fitting in working with a crew. Shooting for me is solitary so I had less adjusting problems. But now that I’ve been more socially adaptive, I also enjoy collaborating with some friends.
How are these collaborations different now, what about the relationship has changed? Or have you changed?
Living the past 9 years in NYC, I’ve met many people along the way. After coming back from my one-month travel to China, I went through old negatives and found some snapshots of them that I had never printed. Alongside, I have been contacting others to come back to my life for a chat and photograph them as a document of whom I had befriended.
What are some of the main themes that you pursue in your photography? Why is this compelling to you?
When photographing in urban streets, the constant flow of people may either cause one to a scatterbrain existence and/or focus right into one’s obsessions, which in my case would be the city as my mis-en-scene and the individuals that navigate within, especially beautiful women in passing that I could not connect with due to the rules of the urban environment.
Is this scatterbrained existence, this anonymity resulting in idiosyncrasy, a natural human state? In other words, is it forced upon us or is it our most comfortable position?
I suppose it may relate to the complexities of our society and it’s distribution of information to each individual receiver. If each interprets without an authority (which happens to be the case even in dictatorial China), then where and what is our communication? Each person comes with their conditioning which speak forth as an obsession. I try photographing whatever I see (and not dwell in my desires ad infinitum) to show a range of objects that may strike a conversation of something other than myself. But the girls I shoot do open up a certain, dare I say, innate sadness I feel around.
The exhibit of your work currently at Chelsea Market, “China, You Are A Lucky Star”, was reviewed by one writer with the following reaction, Wayne is looking at a modernizing China. He identifies himself as a voyeur looking in. The visual texture of the images stands in contrast to the emotional tenor. The images repeatedly focus on individuals, singling them out of the crowd or catching them in isolation. They are content to glide between the gritty modernization of their country, and the aggressive photographic style. What is your reaction to this review? Would say it’s an accurate description of your exhibit?
Photographing is by definition an aggressive act and/of representing the world. It forces upon the viewer memories that may or may not be true, whilst I’m reminded when and how I print in the darkroom that everything from the negative is eventually my interpretation of what had happened.
In fashion, these interpretations have become paramount to the eventual messages we send. Does this power, of the photographer in the darkroom (or on his computer), ever become more powerful than his subject or his context? Or does the truth always come first?
Photography is a language guided by exposure to light and a rehashing of the world. The conquering power of tools have been with us for some time, but I feel regardless how I may print, the initial lure of what I shoot in the world haunts me still.
Link: Haunted by Wayne Liu
oscar
nostalgia
brace yourself
haunted