Is Your Halloween Glow-in-the-Dark Makeup Actually Ruining Your Skin?

Anyone who's ever experienced that surge of excitement every time the lights went off on Room Raiders knows: things are infinitely more fun when they glow in the dark [1] — including makeup. [2] (Though that certainly won't be what motivates you to wash your sheets.)

The only problem? It ranks right up there with Halloween [3]'s other biggest joys — eating cauldrons of Kit Kats and guzzling down a bunch of zombie punches, obviously — in that it can do a number on your skin [4], especially if it's sensitive [5]. "In Halloween makeup, there are two types of glow effects: fluorescent and luminescent," dermatologist Dr. Sejal Shah [6], MD, said. The former is what you might think of when you see neon or "day glow" products, she says, which can contain a number of additives that can cause reactions. The worst offender, though, is luminescent cosmetics, since there is only one ingredient FDA-approved for limited topical use (more on that later).

"The other issue with glow-in-the-dark makeup is that these are often comedogenic, meaning they have the potential to worsen acne-prone skin," added dermatologist Dr. Curtis Asbury [7], MD. Before you grab your black light, here's everything you need to know about the stuff — because getting lit on Halloween only works if you don't feel the burn on your face.

The Lowdown on Glow-in-the-Dark Makeup

The biggest problem with smearing on luminescent makeup is that there's little regulation over what goes into it: "Unfortunately, given the little FDA regulation over cosmetics, more and more additives are being added to these products and causing reactions," said dermatologist Dhaval G. Bhanusali [8], MD, FAAD. "We see skincare reactions almost daily, particularly with smaller brands."

That said, there is one FDA-approved compound used in glow-in-the-dark cosmetics called luminescent zinc sulfide, which Dr. Shah says has a whiteish-greenish glow. But it comes with a caveat: "For the ingredient to actually glow, it must be activated by cooper chloride," dermatologist Dr. Matthew Elias [9], MD, added. "Cooper chloride is a known skin irritant, so the FDA only allows small percentages in makeup."

This isn't to say you have to forget about a Halloween [10] glow-up entirely. If you're still after the electric look, there are a few measures you can take . . .

What to Know Before You Glow

First, know that you should limit the amount of time you leave it on your face. "These-glow-in-the-dark products should only be used infrequently and for short period times, since prolonged contact can cause skin irritation on any skin type," said Dr. Elias.

You can bid adieu to luminescent shadows or liners completely, since the eye area is especially sensitive to irritants, and should avoid the pigments around the ears or any open body area. Dr. Shah advises you scan the ingredients label, too: "These products should contain at least 99.8 percent luminescent zinc oxide and less than 0.02% cooper chloride. It should also be free form impurities, and there are FDA guidelines [11] as to how little cooper, lead, and mercury can be in the products."

As a good rule of thumb, take the same measures you would when trying a new acne treatment or retinol. "A mini patch test is a must," said Dr. Bhanusali. "Try the product on the front of the elbow, behind the ear, or on any other small area that is hidden one to two days before Halloween [12], and if you don't have a reaction, you should be OK."

How — and When — to Take It Off

Every derm we spoke with urged that you immediately rinse it off should you notice a reaction. Even if you don't, though, most agreed it's even more important to wash off a glow-in-the-dark product at the end of the night than your average makeup. (If there were ever a time to double-cleanse, this would be it.)

"Micellar water may be a good first option to make sure you get all of it," said Dr. Bhanusali. Then, follow up with a gentle, AHA-spiked face cleanser to slough off any glow-in-the-dark remnants.

Biore Baking Soda Cleansing Micellar Water Facial Cleanser

Biore Baking Soda Cleansing Micellar Water Facial Cleanser [13] ($6)

Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta Pore Perfecting Cleansing Gel

Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta Pore Perfecting Cleansing Gel [14] ($38)

What to Use Instead

If you want to steer clear of these products, don't fear — you can get your fix of glow-in-the-dark goods this Halloween [15] without spooking your skin. "If you want to experiment with glow in the dark cosmetics and minimize the risk of a reaction as much as possible, stick to nail polish," said plastic surgeon Dr. Darren Smith [16]. "Your nails are far less sensitive than your skin to the potential irritants in these products."

Other options to try? Luminescent hair dye, which typically comes in one-day-only formulas and can be washed off at the end of the night, and makeup with neon-bright (but FDA-approved) ingredients. "There are eight fluorescent colors that are FDA-approved for cosmetic use," said Dr. Shah, adding that you can look for the following on the label: D&C Orange No. 5, No. 10, and No. 11; D&C Red No. 21, No. 22, No. 27 and No. 28; and D&C Yellow No. 7.

Check out a few good bets below.