Alexis Mabille said he designed his Spring 2013 collection for "a girl who stays in the city and doesn't care about the countryside." Maybe that explains why he paired so many of his colorful ensembles — think yellow or blue dresses with black lace overlays and lots of oversize gingham on pants, jackets, dresses, and everything in between — with tough black leather motorcycle boots. All in all, this was a new direction for Mabille: even his signature bow ties turned into functional ribbon drawstrings that gave structure to a shirtdress and allowed a few gowns to hang languidly from the neck. It seemed less about women as jewels (recall here the baubles that hung from his models' hair during his Fall 2012 Couture show) than about women as customers, which makes sense for this stage of Mabille's career. He'll celebrate the opening of his first store in Paris this week.