Derek Lam Spring 2013 | Runway

The first outfits to appear on Derek Lam's Spring 2013 runway were met with more than a few looks of surprise. Not that the pieces weren't pleasing; it was just that the autumnal palette of mustard and green seemed to catch most of the sleepy-eyed Sunday crowd a little off guard.

Regardless of those first unexpected hues, this was a collection that exemplified Lam's unique talent for elevating classic sportswear. Silhouettes were straightforward, yes, but up close, there were plenty of intriguing elements at play — asymmetrical seaming, for one. That turned up on everything from a slick leather shift dress with knife pleating at the hem to a killer bilevel trench coat. A series of slim skirts, boxy t-shirts, and straight dresses in geometrically embroidered mesh and amped-up jewel tones were definitely fetching. And those pencil skirts and dresses covered in crumpled paillettes that closed the show? Just the thing to wake the crowd up.