John Galliano Spring 2013

Now that he's not designing for Dior, Bill Gaytten has been able to devote his full attention to creating a new way forward for the John Galliano brand. His Spring 2013 collection was a good move in the right direction, effectively removing all the dripping detail and meticulously crafted romance Galliano lavished on his garments. But Gaytten is not a minimalist by any stretch of the word, and he infused this collection with lots of volume courtesy of thick cotton that featured origami-like folds. Most of the clothing floated away from the body, with the exception of a black bralette top that, nevertheless, had folds in it, too. The color palette was simple: black and white, with splashes of a peachy rose tone, a bright blue, yellow, and a very pale pink. A printed jacquard depicting cars in gridlock traffic added another layer of visual interest. And as if in homage to the outlandish character of the brand's founder — and his love of millinery — Gaytten paired the ensembles with oversize hats designed by Stephen Jones.