Maison Martin Margiela Spring 2014: Shine On

If last season's Maison Martin Margiela show was all about cheeky charm, Spring 2014 tried to achieve serious sparkle. Models snaked down a runway in some truly spectacular looks cut from burgundy cloth and a beautiful blue pinstripe material, but what stole the show were the garments that incorporated shiny paillettes or small stones. A midriff-baring top was paired with trousers and a belt that had strands of these rhinestones hanging from it, while an otherwise simple combination of a white shirt and blue trousers was intensified with the addition of a sparkly pink corset and an artfully applied piece of tulle.

There were moments here when you felt the Maison plucking at the modernist chord that's been running through the past few seasons of collections, but the model who came down the runway in what looked like an 18th century French officer's jacket didn't gel with that sentiment quite so well.