Mary Katrantzou Fall 2013

Judging from her clever takes on shape and prints, there's no doubt that Mary Katrantzou is one of London's most exciting young designers to watch. And after Sunday's dreamy, transportive Fall 2013 collection, Katrantzou has certainly further solidified that spot. This season, the designer bucked expectation and offered up pieces that were largely void of the in-your-face hues and geometric patterns that have become her calling card. Instead, she worked with a smoky palette of grays, blues, and deep rusts, that — thanks to structured satin sculpted with origami folds, billowing chiffon, and intricate tree-branch prints — resulted in a collection that was as powerful and moody as storm clouds gathering on a gray Winter day.