>> From look one, a cool knit kilt on Kasia Struss, it was clear that David Neville and Marcus Wainwright are on to something this season. For their first women's-only runway show (men's was shown separately this time around), Neville and Wainwright moved to a new venue — a brick-walled SoHo loft spacious enough for two extra-long runway corridors; in between, a row of oversized spherical lanterns emitting a soft glow. As for the show, it was by many accounts their best one yet.
Cozy knit ponchos, camouflage anoraks, and pleated skirts were pulled together in a stellar styling job by former Marie Amelie Sauve assistant Vanessa Reid (who was also responsible for the stunning layering in Missoni's Fall 2009 collection). Miniature black belts buckled over pant cuffs and wrists, pouches hung from waist belts or belts around the thigh, and more belting went around the shoulders and across the back, harnessing a select few looks. Accessories were out in full force: bolo ties over button-up shirts, knee-high socks, mittens, and scarves.
Rag & Bone is known for their top-notch casting — label favorites like Jessica Stam, Lily Donaldson, and Coco Rocha were nowhere to be found, but Lily Aldridge walked, explaining the Kings of Leon appearance front row (she dates the lead singer).