As Replacement Rumors Linger, Stefano Pilati's Spring 2011 Yves Saint Laurent Collection Criticized For Not Making Impact
>> Rumors of Stefano Pilati's fate at Yves Saint Laurent have been circling for months now, some purporting that he may be headed to Giorgio Armani, and others just saying that he's on his way out, and headhunters have been employed to interview replacements.
Pilati's Spring 2011 collection was an ode to the Saint Laurent codes, which WWD called "impeccable," "stellar," and "perfection," and Style.com deemed "a collection that should resonate loud and long for Pilati." Cathy Horyn, however, wasn't so convinced: "The problem with the clothes is they don’t get under your skin. They’re a little boring, if you really want to know. Mr. Pilati’s choice of French blue, a soft burnt orange, tan and a bit of black-flecked green seem rather flat in a season of fantastical color."
And if there's any credence to the rumors of Pilati's fate at Saint Laurent hanging in the balance, Horyn's next paragraph certainly doesn't help his case: "Mr. Pilati has another problem, or rather the YSL company does. In the six years he has been the house designer, it’s hard to think of a shape or a color or a detail for which he is known. He has done saucy ruffles, then clerical references, then sleek pants suits with little pom-poms, then modernist tunics, then Japanese-like cutting, then hot leather bustiers, and loose dresses with strawberries. But what does he stand for? It’s never fair or accurate to compare two designers — different circumstances, different design methods — but Phoebe Philo is a very good example of a designer who in a short time has created shapes and motifs for Céline that are recognizable. Whether you like them or not, or find them original, the designs at Céline are very clear and impactful. More than that, the clothes seem to be desirable. And Mr. Pilati hasn’t been able to engage the fashion tribe on that level."