Phillip Lim Tells Us How to Shift Our Mindset So the Fashion World Can Be an Inclusive Place

By Sarah Wasilak

Published on 5/18/2021 at 5:41 PM

Courtesy of Phillip Lim
Courtesy of Phillip Lim

When you think of Phillip Lim, you may immediately picture his fashion brand, 3.1 Phillip Lim, and the iconic pieces associated with it — the Pashli satchel certainly comes to mind, a street style staple for years. Lim has the accolades to show for his success, having won CFDA awards for womenswear in 2007, menswear in 2012, and accessories in 2013. The Thailand-born American designer of Chinese descent has recently joined industry leaders such as Prabal Gurung, Chriselle Lim, and Allure Editor in Chief Michelle Lee to raise awareness around Asian hate crimes and have open conversations on Instagram Live to educate their followers.

"The fashion industry in America does a lot of subtle 'othering' into categories like the Asian designers and the Black designers. We're all just designers, period."

"I'm not an activist by any means. I'm an Asian American who is now activated," Lim said when I talked to him about the important work he is doing on his platform. He continued, "I've often received messages from people suggesting I stay in my lane as a fashion designer, and that I should not mix my personal beliefs with work, however I think it is important to speak and share your value system with the customer. Gone are the days where we 'let our clothes speak for themselves.' Everything is interconnected now. What is professional is also personal. The more we are our authentic selves and commit to doing this work for the greater good, that is where real change comes from." Lim hopes the dialogue will lead to a steady change of narrative in the fashion industry where our consciousness shifts and we create a standard for what we will no longer accept as a society.

Ahead, read our interview that focuses on his critical efforts in representation, but first read Lim's fundamental takeaway about the fashion world and think of it as an action item. Most importantly, let it stick with you: "The fashion industry in America does a lot of subtle 'othering' into categories like the Asian designers and the Black designers. We're all just designers, period. We're human beings with a story that unfolds in the work we do. So, we have to evolve from categorizing people like products of an old and tired system."

POPSUGAR: How do you continue to ensure that the 3.1 Phillip Lim brand is for everyone?
Phillip Lim: This brand was built on the idea of serving a global citizen. We have never isolated anyone from being a part of our community. I aim to create a space and clothing for people to feel confident and ignited. No one is perfect, we will keep aiming to be as inclusive as possible. This brand was built on value, passion, compassion, strength, and hard work – we hope that ethos flows through not only our garments but our presence as a brand. We also want to be a brand that stands for community and unity, one that brings people together and doesn't try to dictate who is in or who is out. The way we do this is to continue to constantly evolve not only with our products but also consistently using our platforms to represent and stand for humanity in all its colorful and diverse glory.

"We all need each other and we will be better as collaborators instead of competitors."

PS: What does your latest collection, LIVE FREE, stand for?
PL: This overall craving for community and togetherness. This past year was tough for so many, not only with the pandemic, but with the rise in violent hate crimes and attacks against the Asian community. I felt like we all just needed something to lean into to find hope. Each collection is inspired by a mantra, most recently the reminder to 'Be Present.' LIVE FREE to me is where I really feel the collection speaks through more than just clothing. We created this with the idea to live authentically, strip away the superfluous, so that we are empowered to exist in our own world. The freedom to live in the comfort of who we truly are – to live with purpose and ease.

PS: What advice would you give to a young fashion design student right now?
PL: Take a minute to slow down to figure yourself out, especially right now. Constantly adjust your expectations and align them to the values you hold true to yourself. Receive opportunities with gratitude and make the most of them. Don't wait for the ideal thing or the ideal scenario. Be like bamboo. Flexible in expectations, but firm in your focus. What we all understand from this moment especially is that everyone is connected but nothing is guaranteed. We all need each other and we will be better as collaborators instead of competitors. Figure out what is important to you and start carving out your role as part of a larger community.

PS: What have been some of your proudest moments in fashion history that speak to your efforts in representation?
PL: We collaborated on GLOBAL campaigns with [Dutch artist and photographer] Viviane Sassen that focused on going back to your roots, shooting these incredibly raw moments with models in their hometowns with their families. The campaign humanized the fashion industry as we saw into the real lives of these glamorous people. One that sticks out to me is when we traveled to Ethiopia and worked with Liya Kebede and her family.

Getty | Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho

For our 10-year celebration we collaborated with [landscape artist] Maya Lin whose whole practice is to use elements of the everyday to create consciousness — very in tune with how I try to create as well. She created an installment for our runway show made completely from several months of compost from our studio. It was incredible and she helped us begin to envision our brand in the sustainability space.

PS: Which ss21 pieces help your customer achieve the perfect well-rounded wardrobe?
PL: Some of my favorite classic spring/summer pieces that I think are necessary for living life are our Everyday Tank Dress ($150) and The Everyday Legging ($175). One of my favorite dresses for spring is our Yellow Ruffle dress ($550) – this is great to dress up or down and the construction of the dress is so elegant. To accessorize, I think our Noa Sandal ($550) is another great closet staple. Lastly, our Mini Pashli ($695) is the perfect summer bag – light, fun, and easy.

PS: How are you supporting small businesses right now as an industry leader?
PL: A personal project that I started to help create a community space and highlight small businesses is through my initiative More Than Our Bellies. More Than Our Bellies is a testament to the appeal and power of food, but it's also a testament to personal experience and the power of sharing experiences with others. Food is the best way to bring people together. Bring bread to a table, and you can create an instant community. Across cultures and throughout history, food is the universal language.

"Bring bread to a table, and you can create an instant community."

MTOB celebrates open-mindedness, humility, and a willingness to make mistakes. It embraces the spirit of imperfection, of improvisation, of doing and learning things yourself, both with and for others. It is a community of generalists, of dabblers and amateurs, of home cooks and beginners. We've collaborated with the likes of Viviane Sassen, Sho Shibuya of PLACEHOLDER Brooklyn, Hye Min Studio, Michael Gurrado, and Amy Wan. This month, 15 percent of proceeds from all sales go to GiveIndia for AAPI Heritage month. With the second wave of the COVID-19 pandemic, GiveIndia is directly supporting those in need with oxygen, sanitary materials, and food supplies.