When news broke last night that Oscar de la Renta had died, it left an instant hole in the fashion world. And not just because he was a globally known designer. There's something about de la Renta's clothing that brings out the very best in the women who wear it — and lots of famous ladies, from former Secretary of State Hillary Clinton to Taylor Swift, have long been among his most devoted customers.
On the runway, in particular, de la Renta managed to talk to women of all stripes by making the most richly beautiful versions of the things they really need: suits that are professional and playful, coats that are warm and whimsical, and gowns that inspire envy wherever they appear. The designer's love of classic proportions has long rivaled his passion for decoration, which means his collections often blend midcentury shapes, lots of embellishments, and plenty of colorful spirit.
We know we haven't seen the last of Oscar de la Renta on the runway, but for now, we're taking pause to look back at his work.
Always at the forefront of trends while still remaining true to classic style, the designer sent a cool-girl play on gingham down the runway, and it quickly became one of the most-talked-about prints of New York Fashion Week.
For a new spin on eveningwear, this runway was filled with formal separates and whimsical color combinations.
The first handful of looks were as far into menswear as we've seen from the designer, and we certainly weren't expecting pinstripes.
We could hear a few of the gowns coming before they even emerged from backstage, like this gold gown of lacquered feathers and circle beads, which clinged and clanged so beautifully that it was a pity to think it'd ever just hang on a rack.
Karlie Kloss walked out in the final number, made of polka dots on tiered ruffles of tulle, before she took a bow with Oscar himself.
A wind machine helped the many feathers in Oscar's Spring 2012 collection move on the runway.
Orange wasn't quite the new black in Spring 2010, but that didn't stop this dress from looking spectacular.
But this suit, with its geometric embellishments, made for an interesting option at the office.
Flowers, this time painted on, made Oscar's Spring 2007 collection look like a garden.
Oscar also loves lace, and there's no better evidence of that than this dress from Spring 2007.
The unexpected pairing of a t-shirt and an elegant skirt provided a little whimsy in the Spring 2006 collection.
Jacquards, like this one from Spring 2006, are also an important part of Oscar's playbook.
Sheen is a major factor in Oscar's clothing, and here we saw it in both the coat and the skirt.
But more practical options, like this Winter white suit, were also included in his Fall 2004 collection.