The Lanvin Fall '16 runway hit Paris Fashion Week Thursday, but with no Alber Elbaz, and decidedly less magic. The Lanvin woman, crafted in Alber's 14-year tenure at the house, was present, but she seemed just a shadow of her former self; the draping and fit that defined the label fell a little flat this season.
Still, the customer will be pleased to find the sensibility is the same: polished femininity and wearable glamour, this season with touches of velvet, ruffles, and daywear metallics. There are glimmers of greatness — including a luxurious fur coat that cinched at the waist and a gilded sheath dress — but the tailoring and the playful proportions lack sharpness. Bustiers and peplum tops paired with menswear trousers would be the stuff of great trends, but the execution fails. We miss, too, the glamorous minidresses and the parade of dresses you'd expect to see on the red carpet. It's why we fell in love with Lanvin in the first place.