I Had a Dermatologist Critique My Skincare Routine, and I Learned a Lot
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As a beauty editor, I've tried countless skincare products, written extensively on complexion-enhancing ingredients, and interviewed what seems like an entire hospital's worth of doctors on what's best for the body's largest organ. I consider myself more of a skincare expert than the average beauty-lover but have wondered if my extensive skincare routine was missing any major steps or I was making any major mistakes.
I reached out to dermatologist Dr. Dhaval Bhanusali, MD, to critique my regimen and let me know if I was making any major errors. After outlining for Dr. Bhanusali my routine of cleansers, toners, AHAs, retinol, and, of course, plenty of moisturizer and SPF, his responses were surprising.
Ahead, check out what Dr. Bhanusali had to say about my product-heavy routine.
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Cleanser
I explained to Dr. Bhanusali that I usually alternate using a gentle cleanser with two percent salicylic acid to fight my frequent breakouts. I was surprised to learn that he thought once a day was too much for my skin. "Using a salicylic acid cleanser two to three times a week or just after workouts is usually enough," he said. "Overdoing it can cause more breakouts."
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Toner
As for my toner, Dr. Bhanusali recommended I skip it. Like many dermatologists, he isn't a fan, perhaps for its reputation to strip the skin. Fortunately, I always use alcohol-free and highly moisturizing versions.
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Masks
I explained to Dr. Bhanusali that instead of using a clay mask all over my face, I'd been opting to use it as a spot treatment and washing off after a few minutes. Bhanusali recommended I go back to the conventional way of using masks to get the oil-absorbing benefit on my entire face but limit my usage to once or twice a week. "I usually recommend masking once or twice a week depending on the skin type," he said.
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SPF
I told Dr. Bhanusali that I religiously wear SPF every day, and he reminded me to make sure it's at least SPF 30. He recommended Aveeno's Positively Radiant Daily Facial Moisturizer ($14).
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Dermatologist Visits
The one step I was vitally missing in my routine? Seeing a dermatologist. Dr. Bhanusali warned me that my stress-related acne flare-ups could be a myriad of things like rosacea or even a hormone imbalance.
"Stress-caused acne may be really part of a larger, hormonal issue that needs to be rebalanced," he said. "You could also have mild rosacea, which is something significantly underdiagnosed out there. Stress really could be just triggering the rosacea and causing mild flares."