A Simple Guide to Korean Skin Care For Women With Darker Skin

POPSUGAR Photography | Maria del Rio
POPSUGAR Photography | Maria del Rio
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I first heard about Korean beauty a few years ago, but I was hesitant to try it as a black woman with dark brown skin. Not once did I come across a woman who looked like me in the ads of the most sought-after K-Beauty products, which caused me to wonder if this Eastern skin care regime was safe to use on my melanin-rich skin. I was also concerned when I came across terms such as whitening (which I later learned really meant brightening) and products I had never heard of, like serum. However, after lots of research and experimentation, I've learned that the Korean beauty routine can be used by individuals with any and all skin types and complexions. Not only does it promise a healthy, dewy face, but it also helps your #blackgirlmagic, your inner awesomeness, glow even brighter.

The Korean skin care routine is a multistep regimen that focuses on layering various products on the skin in order of lightest consistency to heaviest consistency, or least hydrating to most moisturizing. The most important aspects of the routine are hydrating your skin and protecting it from the sun's harmful rays. By keeping your skin moisturized and protected, you will minimize the chance of needing lots of corrective treatments in the future. While it is not a new routine, Korean women and men have been using it for ages, and it has grown tremendously popular over the last few years here in the United States — cementing itself as more than just a passing fad.

Simply speaking, this antiaging regimen boils down to cleansing, exfoliating, treating, moisturizing, and applying SPF during the day. And it's perfect for women of color since it emphasizes hydration and sun protection. We often grow up hearing how important it is to moisturize every day but hardly are told how important it is to apply sunscreen daily. After months of trying varying combinations and products, I've narrowed down just what steps and products work best on darker skin. Keep reading to discover my tried-and-tested picks!

Step 1: Cleanser
POPSUGAR Photography / Maria del Rio

Step 1: Cleanser

To start, you'll want to make sure your face is super clean before applying the rest of your skin care products, so you'll want to double cleanse. That means using an oil-based cleaner, like Banila and Co Clean It Zero's Classic ($16), to help remove makeup and oil-based impurities, like sunscreen, before lathering up with your normal face wash. So you're using two cleansers instead of one to make your skin even cleaner (hence the name double cleansing).

Step 2: Toner
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Step 2: Toner

A toner is the first step in helping to hydrate your skin. Since every skin type and complexion needs moisture, this is a step that should not be skipped. Toning also helps to restore the skin's pH balance and pick up any residue your cleanser may have left behind.

Andalou Naturals has a fantastic one, Clementine +C Illuminating Toner ($13), that also contains vitamin C. This vitamin is perfect for women with darker complexions because it helps fade dark spots, something we're prone to getting. It also fights acne, since it is a potent source of antioxidants.

After you double cleanse, wipe your entire face with a toner-soaked cotton pad until there are no traces of dirt left on the cotton pad — don't forget to wipe your neck and hairline.

Step 3: Exfoliator
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Step 3: Exfoliator

Having a darker complexion means that your epidermis contains more melanin, the pigmentation that determines skin color. And that you've probably experienced hyperpigmentation at some point. Hyperpigmentation, which appears on the skin as dark spots, can be caused from sun exposure or a reaction to a skin care product. It is most common among people with darker skin tones since the cells produce more melanin for protection, which results in a dark spot or patch

Regularly exfoliating helps to fade the appearance of dark spots because it polishes off the top layer of dead skin cells to reveal healthy new skin that looks fresh and smooth. A natural exfoliator used one to three times per week will help get rid of dead skin cells, makes your skin super soft, and helps fade any discoloration on the skin. I use Dermae's microdermabrasion ($33) scrub two times a week. This scrub is ideal for individuals with sensitive skin as its main ingredient is natural sea salt, and I've seen many of my dark spots fade significantly since using it.

Step 4: Sheet Mask
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Step 4: Sheet Mask

Sheet masks are simply amazing! You can pop on one of these paper-thin masks for 15-20 minutes to basically give yourself an at-home facial. There's a mask for practically every skin concern imaginable, such as brightening or antiaging. And they come packed with powerful ingredients, like vitamins E, A, and C, which are soaked right into the skin. Since sheet masks give your skin an extra boost of hydration, you can use them one to three times a week for an instant #glowup.

I'm constantly seeking bright, dewy skin (aren't we all?), so I love using a brightening mask like Dr. Jart+'s Brightening Infusion Hydrogel Mask ($8).

Step 5: Eye Cream
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Step 5: Eye Cream

No matter what your current or future eye concern may be, such as dark circles, fine lines, or puffiness, you should be using eye cream. Fresh Lotus Eye Gel ($48) is perfect to help reduce fine lines, something I want to avoid, and really great for all skin types.

When applying eye cream, you want to tap the product onto your skin with your ring finger (the hand's weakest finger) instead of rubbing it in. The skin under the eye is extremely delicate, which is why you want to avoid pulling or tugging on it.

Step 6: Serum
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Step 6: Serum

Serums are the ultimate form of hydration and pack a powerful punch — they are essentially concentrated versions of moisturizers. And they really sink into the skin. Just like with all Korean products, there's a serum for nearly every skin concern such as aging, dryness, acne, or dark spots.

Currently, I'm loving the Revitalizer by Biossance ($58). It has all-natural ingredients and gives your face a glow that helps make you look refreshed and awake. I apply a few drops before my moisturizer, or sometimes I mix the two together and massage the concoction directly onto my face. The massaging technique is believed to help increase circulation, which equals brighter skin — something I'm always after.

Step 7: Moisturizer
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Step 7: Moisturizer

This step is one that almost everyone is familiar with. After your face is clean and soft, you'll want to use your favorite moisturizer. Finding a moisturizer that leaves my skin feeling hydrated but not greasy has been challenging, but I've finally found one: Caudalie's Anti-Wrinkle Protect Fluid ($44). Again, massage the product gently onto your face instead of rubbing it in.

Step 8: SPF or Night Cream
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Step 8: SPF or Night Cream

The above routine can be followed both a.m. and p.m., but you'll want to make sure to end it with either an SPF in the morning or a night cream in the evening.

No matter how dark or light your skin is, it's imperative to wear sunscreen daily. Not only can the sun prematurely age your skin, but it can also cause dark spots. For me it took a lot of experimenting before finding a sunscreen I actually liked and didn't leave a white residue on my brown skin. Every morning, I make sure to apply 3Lab's Perfect Sunscreen SPF 50 ($45) at least 20 minutes before heading out the door (even if it's a cloudy day). I wear it under my makeup so it's closer to my skin.

At night, you should apply a heavier night cream to help lock in moisture while you sleep. First Aid Beauty's Ultra Repair Sleeping Cream ($38) is fantastic, because it goes on thick and leaves your skin hydrated throughout the night.

Conclusion
POPSUGAR Photography | Maria del Rio

Conclusion

Hopefully, you're no longer wondering if you too can use the Korean skin care routine. The combination of products and steps is the foundation to healthy, glowing skin no matter the color of your skin. One of the best parts about this routine is that you do not have to exclusively use Korean products. I like to use a mix of things I find at Sephora, my local drugstore, and of course Korean brands. As a black woman who's tried more Korean products than she can count, spent the last year and a half trying various K-Beauty hacks, and even booked a trip to the skin care capital of the world, Seoul, trust me when I say you too can use this regimen for glowing, beautiful skin.