The Revival of Goth Makeup — Plus How to Create the Look

Despite what Janis Ian taught you about the high-school cafeteria in "Mean Girls," goths are no longer relegated to the back corner of the lunchroom near the sexually active band geeks. Goth culture, particularly goth makeup, has found its way to the plastics table — or at least the cultural mainstream. Between all of us living in the Kourtney Kardashian and Travis Barker rocker-chic era, makeup tutorials on soft-goth makeup reaching hundreds of thousands of views on TikTok, and even the resurgeance of the look on the popular Netflix series "Heartbreak High," it's safe to say that goth makeup has made a much-awaited comeback. Here's what you need to know about the trend so that you can sit with it.

"Traditionally, we know goth makeup to be mostly pale skin, dark smoky eyes, and black or deep red lips," makeup artist Ashley Rebecca tells PS. "People also add signs and symbols to their eye makeup, such as upside-down crosses or drops that resemble blood, to really drive the goth theme home."

But like other makeup trends (we're looking at you, '90s makeup!), today's goth makeup is inspired by its classic predecessor with some modern twists.

"Despite popular belief, it's pretty easy to take goth makeup and make it a tad more mainstream," Rebecca says. "Traditional goth makeup touts a paler complexion, but that doesn't always need to be the case now if you play up your eyes and lips." Contrast is key when creating this look, so as long as you keep that in mind, you can take tons of creative liberties.

If you don't want to dive head first into the skinny brow and jet-black eyeshadow of it all, soft goth makeup is a slightly less intense version of the trend that can almost feel a little romantic. "Soft goth makeup is about adding an alternative edge to your look and not just wearing makeup to enhance your appearance," makeup artist Gabrielle Alvarez says. "It's more about using makeup to express yourself." With soft goth makeup, Alvarez says that she loves a dark liner around the eyes or lips. "That plus a chunky, spider-y lash with a cool-toned contoured cheek is perfection," she says. With soft glam makeup looks, don't be afraid to play with color; you can achieve the essence of the trend by choosing one feature to emphasize. "Opt for something easy, like your eyeshadow or lipstick," Alvarez says.

Still, if no one can pry your favorite goth glam looks from your Pinterest board no matter how hard they tried, you'll need a few products to recreate those looks.

Step 1: Create your base. Forget the thick white foundation creams you can find at Party City. Today's goth makeup is more customizable than a stark white face. "You don't need to have a super-pale complexion to pull off the goth trend," Rebecca says. "It's OK to wear a foundation that matches your skin tone. You can choose to play up your eyes and lips in a way that still pays tribute to goth looks without it being as obvious."

Step 2: Add some depth to your complexion. Rebecca notes that contour, blush, and highlighter haven't been utilized in traditional goth makeup looks in the same way that they've become a mainstay in our everyday makeup. But in goth makeup 2.0, we're seeing them make an appearance. Frosty white highlighter is commonplace, as is the trendy pop of blush under the eyes.

Step 3: Play up your eyes. "The simplest way to create gothic-inspired makeup is going by the phrase: 'the darker, the better'," Rebecca says. She recommends using deep black eyeliner and shadow to create a smoky eye. To start, line your entire lash line (top and bottom) with your liner. Don't forget your waterlines. Then, using a small smudge brush or even your fingers, buff the liner up and out to cover more of your lid space. Once you have the general shape you want — this is totally up to you — take your black shadow on a flat shader brush and pack it on directly over your liner. This will lock in all your hard work and create an even deeper shade of black. Black shadow tends to have a lot of fallout, so using a clean, small fluffy brush without any product, gently blend out the edges until it creates a soft gradient effect on your lids.

Step 4: Paint on your lip. There's no right or wrong way to wear gothic-inspired lipstick. Rebecca recommends experimenting with deep lipstick tones, from black to blood red and even purple. If you really want your eyes to be the star of the show, rather than picking a traditional pink- or brown-based nude, try a more gray- or purple-based nude, like a mauve or stone. And stick with matte finishes if you want to stay true to the trend.