American Horror Story Fashion Facts

If an Outfit Looks Familiar, It Probably Is

"Something I like to do is put little pieces from previous episodes on somebody else or reuse them to see if any of the fans catch it. There was a necklace we used on Lana in season two that I then made into a belt that Gaga wore in season five. There was a cardigan that Cordelia wore in season three that Chloe Sevigny’s character, Alex, wore in season five. Little things that I would just throw in to see if people would catch it. No one has so far — that I know of, anyway."

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A Lot of Work Goes Into Getting Each Look Just Right

Image Source: Everett Collection

Since a handful of characters are based on historical figures, "research is key" for Lou.

"I spend the first two weeks of prep doing research, and then I usually hire someone to help because it's such a massive project. I do about 20 big research boards for Ryan to go through, and then he takes a little pile of post-its and sits and hits the pictures that resonate the most with him. That gives me direction for getting to know what he wants and what the tone is. I usually cover my walls in research so everywhere I look, I see things that inspire me for each character."

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And the Shopping Process Is Intense

Image Source: Everett Collection

"The hardest part is translating [a costume] from the page to the character, and making sure it's what Ryan wants, what I want, and that the actor can work within that well. It's finding that great balance, that collaboration, because it's not just going to the mall and buying a specific color dress. It's: 'What's the silhouette? How does it move? Do they have to get shot in it — in the arm?' So then we have to cover the arms. 'Does she have to fall down in it?' Then the stunt double's going to need a coat over it. There are so many factors to think of on American Horror Story because of all the stunts. There are photo doubles, stunt doubles, and [the costume] might have to work for three episodes, so it's: 'How many multiples do we need?' If there's only one of that dress across the country, we can't use that dress because I can't find five of them."

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