When taking in a new Marni collection, one must abandon all expectations. The Italian fashion house has never just been "up on the trends" but a place to start new ones, or at least introduce artful concepts other designers might never imagine. So when Consuelo Castiglioni stepped down last year and Francesco Risso made his way over from Prada, all eyes were watching. But with his Fall 2017 womenswear debut, Risso did indeed pick up on the brand's DNA — and weaved in a few strands of his own.
If, this season, the suit is being reinvented and giving women fresh new options for wearing coordinates, Marni presents another question entirely: should a lady ever sacrifice comfort for sophistication in the board room or at the office? The Marni blazer comes in a soft, swingy style. It looks like a cropped parka, and some sets are even offered in full shearling — it's the pajama suit of 2017.
Also notable were the accessories. It's not that you wouldn't recognize the shape of a Marni shoe on the street, but in the past, they weren't exactly It items in the viral sense. Risso is here to change that. This Fall, furry-lined mod patent boots will be sellouts along with the circle hip belts, and the bags — some finished with electric green fuzz — have a remarkable, ovular shape. They sort of remind you of the handheld beach radios from the '60s.
But just when we were thinking back in time, Risso brings us to another dimension entirely. His pearl and metal hoop drop earrings are alien-like. They go with huge goggle glasses and bubble bead necklaces. When paired with astronaut shift dresses, the space mission is complete.
Toward the finale, footwear got more colorful, and kitten heels with the thinnest buckles were decorated with some bright shearling. The dresses were even more of a mixed bag. Details included abstract florals, plenty of ruching, and the addition of bustiers and bralettes up top — a layering move that could easily be seen as a nod to Miuccia Prada.
Nevertheless, Risso ended the show with paillette sequins, a signature Marni decoration. These were strung on pastel shifts that really belong on the red carpet on the likes of Elle Fanning or newcomer Ruth Negga. In white, we could even see them on a quirky bride at her rehearsal dinner. So you see, Risso has taken the reins at Marni and already appeased customers all over the planet — and beyond.