What to Know If You Want to Dye Your Natural Hair a Rainbow Color

By Nikki Brown
Instagram | javainaflask
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We're less than one week into a new year and if time has taught us anything, it's that resolutions never go out of style. Oftentimes, emotional growth propagates an outward change, so why not be wholly prepared? A dye job is easy enough in theory, but for women of color with natural tresses, it's a little more intricate.

The decision to take my hair from dark brown to lavender was anything but hasty. I went back and forth about going neon for months, bookmarking photo references and researching stylists who would understand my "mixed chick" locks. And even after two salon appointments, multiple rounds of bleaching and a flattering cut, my hair still suffered for months after.

If you're looking to make a similar change but want to avoid those typical snafus, we've consulted a pro for every tip and trick you'll need.

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Porosity and Texture: What’s the difference?

Before you do anything, it’s imperative to understand the difference between the hair’s porosity and texture, as well as how both play a part in the dye process. According to Austin Medearis, lead colorist at Ted Gibson, one takes a higher precedent.

“Hair texture is your natural curl pattern and hair porosity is the hair’s ability to absorb moisture. If you want to know your hair texture, wash your hair and the natural texture will emerge when the hair is wet,” he recommends.

“If you want to know your hair porosity, cut a piece of clean hair and drop it in a glass of water. If it floats (or takes a while to sink), the porosity is low. If it sinks to the bottom of the glass, the hair porosity is high. If the strand lingers in the middle of the glass, the porosity is normal. To a colorist, hair porosity is more important than texture because the porosity will dictate how the hair absorbs the color.”

The lighter you go, the more likely your hair is to lose its natural curl pattern. Locks with a low porosity level also aren’t as receptive to dye chemicals like ammonia. If you’ve recently given up relaxers or perms, your hair probably fits this description and will need time to repair before adding a new color.

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Why Are You Doing It?

Firstly, make sure you’re taking the color plunge for all the right reasons. If a nasty breakup or recent layoff is your motivation, it may be best to wait.

“I always ask . . .'why the change?' Going bright red or blonde because you've broken up with your spouse is a recipe for disaster,” says Medearis. “Emotional hair changes tend to breed adjustments, redos, and stress for colorists when the client's emotions subside.”

Make Sure the Colorist Is Legit

No matter the salon you choose, a colorist should always ask the following questions:

  • What is your hair history? (i.e. What type of color/chemical services have had previously? How often? What type?)
  • What would you like to achieve today with your color? (“Pictures are a help with this question.")
  • How often do you blow-dry, flat iron, and/or curl your hair? (“Heat can affect hair color and porosity.”)
  • How often do you wash your hair? (“Overwashing can also affect the color and porosity.”)
  • When are you getting your next haircut? (“It’s wise to get the cut before performing ombré or balayage, as those services are directed by the haircut.”)
  • What does your dream hair look like?
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Take Caution With Boxed Dye

Now, if your budget doesn’t leave room for a full-service salon, take extreme caution with box dye. Medearis’s rule of thumb is, "If the smell is bothering your nose, the color is more than likely bothering your hair." Beyond that, beware of textile dyes (clothing dye), which are frequently used in conjunction with ammonia and developers.

“When it comes to ammonia-free color, some color companies use a catalyst that will damage the hair just as much as standard ammonia. If it’s truly ammonia-free, it may not be strong enough to cover coarse hair,” he adds.

Deciding on Color

When considering “fashion shades” (lavender, blue, orange), understand that the brighter the color, the blonder your natural hair must go. Black hair is naturally dry and requires deep moisture, so consider gentler developer and semipermanent color, which fades with each shampoo.

“Even with agents like Olaplex and Continuum, you run the risk of losing your natural curl pattern. The lighter you go, the more natural curl pattern you will lose,” says Medearis.

“If you don't have Olaplex or Continuum, the safest way to lighten hair, in my professional opinion, is with 20 vol. developer. The only difference between 20 vol. developer and the stronger, more damaging 30 vol. or 40 vol. developer . . . is time.”

Again, if your hair has also been exposed to other chemical processes (perms, relaxers, texturizers), dyeing may have to be performed in stages. However, lifelong naturalistas should expect a well-trained colorist to accomplish everything in one visit.

Instagram | imperishablecrown

Skin Tone Vs. Hair Color

Surprisingly, skin tone has nothing to do with hair color. Ultimately, the final choice boils down to a personalized consultation; another reason to choose the salon over a box.

“There aren't any particular shades/colors that look best with brown skin," Medearis adds. "In my professional opinion, anyone can achieve being blonde, red, or dark. After reviewing a client's features in their entirety, a well-trained colorist should be able to help you achieve a flattering hair color.”

Aftercare

Ideally, the further you get away from your natural color, the more you’ll have to do in terms of aftercare. When it comes to black hair, keeping the color vibrant and beautiful requires deep conditioning and protectants that will go beyond the surface of each strand.

“For single-process clients, I recommend the Kerastase Color Protection line to keep the hair and color vibrant and healthy,” says Medearis.

For highlighted, double-process, ombré, or balayage clients, he also recommends Kerastase’s Thérapiste line of similar products.

If dye has left your naturally curly hair extremely compromised, Medearis likes using L’Oreal’s Professionnel Pro Fiber Restore Hair Mask ($31) to correct.