3 Smalls Brands Doing Big Things in 2020

If you look closely, you'll find fashion's not at a standstill at all. Despite the pandemic, creators are doing what they do best, and in light of an industry in transition, emerging talent is gaining a foothold where established brands once ruled. One encouraging sign of the times is Net-a-Porter's Vanguard initiative, aimed at giving newer designers both a platform to be seen and mentorship at all levels of their business, to support the brands' long-term development.

This season, the program highlights three up-and-coming designers, each with a unique aesthetic and take on the future of fashion. We had the opportunity to ask each of the creatives behind these emerging brands how they're pushing innovation, adapting to the new normal, and what they're most looking forward to in the wake of so much change. Not surprisingly, this is a group of optimists whose answers will likely inspire you, too. From jewelry designer Jia-Jia Zhu, whose special attention to crystals informs her beautiful designs, to ArtClub's Heidi Middleton, whose label focuses on sustainability, and Minju Kim, winner of Netflix's Next in Fashion, get to know the Vanguard's next generation of designers to watch.

Minju Kim, Minjukim
Net-a-Porter.com

Minju Kim, Minjukim

This virus alerted the world to serious environmental issues and a new lifestyle. I am excited to suggest the new way of fashion for the future.

PS: What has it been like adapting to the "new norm" in the fashion space? And how has this season pushed innovation?
Minju Kim: To be honest, I'm actually still figuring out [how] to adapt. This "new norm" was so unexpected, and we were not prepared for this. We spend so many hours in our own homes, so we tried to design a simple pajama and nightgown with the MINJUKIM touch. Moreover, I want to push myself to think about online-shopping friendly design.

PS: What's been the most challenging and the most exciting thing about designing right now?
MK: It's not just now, as I am always challenged to design [what] sells and not lose myself in it. The most exciting thing right now is finally getting to have vacation after opening the Spring '21 collection on our online showroom soon. I am planning to sleep all day and stay in bed all day.

PS: How have you been staying inspired?
MK: [My] collection is like my diary: each collection contains my own story. I actually don't need to stay out to be inspired — a good night's dream could be inspiration. Spring '21, which I am almost finished [with], was inspired by the COVID-19 situation. The title is "The Spring We Lost." PS: Do trends factor into your design process?
MK: I don't think so — at least I am not trying to let them. My goal is to design timeless womenswear [that] could be worn by various ages.

PS: With all the changes in the industry right now, what are you most excited about looking at the future of fashion?
MK: That we have new challenges to solve. This virus alerted the world to serious environmental issues and a new lifestyle. I am excited to suggest the new way of fashion for the future.

PS: What does it mean to have style right now?
MK: Self-joy, I guess. I never dress up for anyone, I do it for myself. When I style myself [that] way, [it] expresses my color and personality most. I feel joyful and confident. I want to suggest [to] all the people to dress up for yourself, [and find] joy and happiness to get through this stressful situation.

Jia-Jia Zhu, Jia Jia
Net-a-Porter.com

Jia-Jia Zhu, Jia Jia

It's continued to inspire me to make pieces that support people in feeling good within their homes and themselves. I've been inspired to work with crystals that adapt to our time.

POPSUGAR: What has it been like adapting to the "new norm" in the fashion space? And how has this season pushed innovation?
Jia-Jia Zhu: It's been a very creatively nourishing time adapting to the new norm in the fashion space. It's forced me to slow down. It's continued to inspire me to make pieces that support people in feeling good within their homes and themselves. I've been inspired to work with crystals that adapt to our time. For instance, I'm introducing smoky quartz as the master of all grounding stones, and I have been drawn to it immensely this year. Smoky quartz works hard to identify and neutralize electromagnetic energies that surround us in our modern technological world — which is very supportive during this time as we are spending more time on our devices, on Zoom — encapsulated by technology as we have entered a work-from-home culture. Smoky quartz is a great crystal to help neutralize our technological surroundings, bringing us back to the natural elements in our space. It has the power to lift negative feelings associated with fear, lack, and anxiety that may deter us from our joy and genuine wanting — it's determined to bring us back to calmness, a place where our true essence thrives.

PS: What's been the most challenging and the most exciting thing about designing right now?
JZ: The most challenging part has been trying to make production happen. There are many delays and setbacks; however, that has flipped into a positive outlook in the slowdown process and helped me learn to be patient, dealing with the unknown and adjusting to what works — we think about how can we keep certain processes, do things in a new way, or let certain processes go.

PS: How have you been staying inspired?
JZ: Staying connected to family and friends, going on hikes and nature walks, meditation.

PS: Do trends factor into your design process?
JZ: Not so much. I am always inspired by our earth and what is going on around me. I like to see the design process as a very holistic approach. I always start by making a connection to the appropriate crystal that is aligned to what I am experiencing in life in the moment.

PS: With all the changes in the industry right now, what are you most excited about looking at the future of fashion?
JZ: I am looking forward to how brands become more sustainable, more local, and involved within their communities, [h]ow brands support each other; how we make each piece and our design process intentional. There are a lot of changes that need to be made and are being made, and I'm very excited to be a part of the Net-a-Porter community because they are leaders of change in the industry.

PS: What does it mean to have style right now?
JZ: To support each other.

Heidi Middleton, ArtClub
Net-a-Porter.com

Heidi Middleton, ArtClub

Complacency can brew when life is too easy. I have enjoyed rising to the challenge of creating in this environment.

POPSUGAR: What has it been like adapting to the "new norm" in the fashion space? And how has this season pushed innovation?
Heidi Middleton: We feel grateful that we have structured the ArtClub business model the way we have, as it has meant that we have been able to navigate through the recent times and move with them, rather than be disabled by them. When establishing ArtClub two years ago, we made a conscious decision to relinquish seasons, large collections, overseas production, paid PR and marketing, and many other elements that we felt were not relevant to our new way of commerce.

PS: What's been the most challenging and the most exciting thing about designing right now?
HM: I love that that there are so many progressive, hybrid businesses that are being born as a reaction to the times we are living in. We have an obligation to shift the way we exist on the planet, and I feel so inspired to be a part of this moment in time.

PS: How have you been staying inspired?
HM: I like that adverse times can often inspire heightened creativity. We can become more resource[ful] and creative when we are faced with certain challenges. Complacency can brew when life is too easy. I have enjoyed rising to the challenge of creating in this environment.

PS: Do trends factor into your design process?
HM: I like to be aware of trends, so that I can veer away from them. I prefer to focus on an original modern aesthetic that honors a time gone by.

PS: With all the changes in the industry right now, what are you most excited about looking at the future of fashion?
HM: The adaptations that will ultimately benefit people and the planet.

PS: What does it mean to have style right now?
HM: Originality is being celebrated more than ever, I feel. To have style is as much about a way of being as it is about what you are wearing. To me, good style needs to embody humility and a genuine respect and concern for the world we are living in.