My eyelashes and I have always had some beef. While I lust after long, wispy lashes, they're short and naturally straight, and they refuse to stay curled for more than an hour at a time. I've tried my fair share of solutions — fiber mascaras, growth serums, and pricey mink falsies, for example — but they all felt like a chore to apply. After trying them all, it started to look like eyelash extensions were my only hope.
Still, no matter how many Yelp pages I combed through and sketchy Groupons I narrowly stopped myself from buying, I couldn't justify the cost and upkeep of extensions. I was prepared to accept a life of subpar lashes, but then something seriously magical happened: I discovered lash lifts.
I was lucky enough to stumble upon Gigi of Mai Lash Bar (a true hidden gem in NYC) and paid a cool $65.
After having a few treatments under my belt, to say they have been anything less than life-changing would be an insult to my newly reborn lashes. I've become fully confident going mascara-free when I'm in a rush, and to be honest I just feel prettier in general. Best of all, I haven't touched a lash curler in over 12 (yes, literally 12) weeks. To see why I'm never turning back, read on for the full lowdown on every step of the process, plus before and after photos.
From beginning to end, a perm or lift is completed in seven-ish steps and lasts approximately 40 minutes. Here's how it goes.
Step 1: Choose your curl
Similar to extensions, you (and your natural set of lashes) have some say in the final product. Mine grow extremely straight, so my technician and I made the joint decision to go for the most dramatic look. Those who already have a bit of curl may prefer the "natural" option, and if you're not sure which to choose, you can try something in between.
Step 2: Clean eyelids and lie down a roller
And we're off: the first order of business is to protect your bottom lashes by placing damp cotton pads over them, directly below your waterline. This ensures they stay out of the way and won't accidentally get curled with your top lashes. Next, the area is gently cleaned to remove dirt and oils and a more gentle version of false-eyelash glue is swiped onto your lids. After it gets tacky, a gel roller (selected based on your curl of choice) is placed down.
Step 3: Glue lashes onto roller
Once the roller is safely in place, your lashes are adhered to it using a gentle glue in an upward-sweeping motion. This is done to "set" the shape of the curl for the entire process. A second set of damp cotton pads are placed down, this time practically touching your upper waterline, to prevent solutions from making contact with your eyes.
Step 4: Add lash perm cream
When it comes time to do the actual perming, a cream formula is applied to the lashes, starting just above the root. This solution uses the same base ingredient as your standard hair perm cream — ammonium thioglycolate — which breaks down and resets the bonds in your hair. In simpler terms, it's exactly what makes perm treatments as long-lasting as they are. To make it more gentle on your delicate lashes, it's diluted with the help of distilled water.
Although I can't personally attest to the resemblance this perm formula has to the original stuff, I've heard it smells exactly the same. If you suffered a perm horror story in your younger days, be warned that it may induce some temporary hair PTSD. But if you're a perm virgin like me, just know the scent is quite strong. I never felt any pain or burning, but I could definitely tell that the cream was near my lashes. After they're fully saturated, the perm solution is left to sit for around five minutes. This number may fluctuate slightly, but leaving the cream on for too long can fry the hair and over-weaken the bonds, causing things like dryness and breakage.
Step 5: Remove perm cream and apply neutralizer
The perm solution is removed with a damp Q-tip, and a second formula is applied. My tech referred to this as a "neutralizing fix cream" to essentially lock everything in. A strip of plastic wrap is placed over both eyes to keep heat contained and speed up the seven-minute step. I'd like to mention that by this point in the treatment, I was on the verge of entering full-on dreamland. In other words: it was extremely relaxing for me.
Step 6: Clean lashes and apply keratin treatment
After the final timer goes off, the process is complete. The cream is removed, and your freshly curled lashes are carefully detached from the rollers. The cotton pads and rollers are discarded, and the area is thoroughly cleaned. A keratin treatment (the same protein found in your hair, skin, and nails) may then be applied as an extra boost of strength and nourishment, which some locations charge extra for. Because it's a wet formula — similar to a clear mascara — it can change the look of the final product.
Step 7: The final reveal
Ta-da! When I first opened my eyes, my technician let out a genuine "Whoa!" And oh my God, was that justified. Once she handed me a mirror to assess the results for myself, I was shocked to see my previously nonexistent lashes looking curly, longer than ever, and pretty f*cking fabulous. We're talking zero to 100 transformation here.
Water can deactivate the perm cream if it makes contact with your lashes too soon, so avoid getting them wet for at least three hours. I chose to wait until the next morning just to be safe — which is the recommended time frame for applying mascara, anyways. Because these are your natural lashes, you won't have to worry about sticking to water-based mascaras, routinely combing through them with a spoolie, or anything else you'd have to do with lash extensions. Using your favorite mascara is both welcomed and encouraged.
Top: My bare lashes hours before the treatment.
Bottom: My bare lashes hours after the treatment.
Top: My lashes curled with an eyelash curler pretreatment. Wearing liquid eyeliner and mascara.
Bottom: My lashes after the perm; no eyelash curler. Wearing liquid eyeliner and mascara.