The fashion direction for Darren Star's "Emily in Paris" season three was inspired by Lily Collins's real-life decision to cut bangs. After seeing her new style, costume designer Marylin Fitoussi found an entirely new crop of muses: Audrey Hepburn, Jane Birkin, Brigitte Bardot, Kate Moss, Anna Karina in classic Godard films, and the French New Wave, according to Netflix.
Fitoussi, who consulted with Patricia Field for seasons 1 and 2, told POPSUGAR her overall aim was to soften Emily Cooper's style. She incorporated more subtle pastel tones as the French do, bidding farewell to Cooper's bright fuchsia fetish; introduced high-waisted pants to her wardrobe as a nod to mentor Sylvie's (Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu) confident Parisian style; and swapped stilettos for chunky platforms. "Of course, we try to mix high brands with affordable brands, vintage pieces, and young French designers," she said. "I feel as if it's my duty in my work to use young designers."
Collins was an integral part of the costume conversation, bringing her own pieces onto set and voicing her opinions. "She might say, 'You know, Marylin, I think this print reminds me too much of season one.' And it is essential for me to listen to her, to understand this feeling, to assimilate it, and to make sure that I can also serenely present many more options to her," Fitoussi told Netflix. "My main interest is that she feels comfortable in her clothes . . . that they actually help in the construction of her character; that she has to act less, because the intention and mood is already visually noticeable on her through the costume."
Another goal for Emily's style evolution this season? To propose a mirror effect between her own aesthetic and that of Sylvie's. "Emily has observed Sylvie's codes. She's spent two seasons watching her, thinking to herself, 'She's got style, she's got pizazz,'" Fitoussi said, continuing, "Sylvie knows how to raise a collar, how to put a coat on her shoulders. I listen, I look, I integrate. And in this season, Lily puts a coat on her shoulders and puts on high-waisted pants, which she's never had before. She still does not risk what we call a 'Sylvie,' being able to release a shoulder and pull up a coat and a shirt collar. But she'll get there."
Scroll to see more of Emily's looks from Seasons 1 through 3, as well as outfits from other characters on the show, including Camille (Camille Razat), Mindy (Ashley Park), and Madeline (Kate Walsh). Plus, shop our favorites.
Fitoussi describes Camille (Camille Razat) as a minimalist who rarely wears bold color or statement jewels as a nod to classic Parisian style. She does, however, have dramatic switch-ups in aesthetic, from girly sequined minidresses to more boyish cuts, such as traditionally tailored pantsuits. "She reflects another kind of femininity that it's nice to have in the show," Fitoussi told POPSUGAR.
Fitoussi says Madeline (Kate Walsh) takes a "bigger is better" approach to style, which is very much an American sensibility that Emily also projects. AZ Factory, Herve Leger, and vintage Mugler were some of the brands Fitoussi chose to build out Madeline's wardrobe this season.
"Since she's the only recurring American character we have . . . we decided to exaggerate aspects of the American aesthetic, to caricature them a little bit. It's always very good-natured and very good-spirited. We exaggerate a little on the size of the jewels, the excess of the jewels," Fitoussi told Netflix.
Sylvie (Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu) and Madeline (Kate Walsh) have a power clash this season, which culminates at Pierre Cadault's retrospective, where they both show up in the same dress, albeit accessorized differently. The look comes courtesy of designer Stéphane Rolland, who makes a cameo in the episode.
"I chose [the dress] because there is a very devilish side to Sylvie at the time," Fitoussi explained to Netflix. "I wanted it very minimalist; a black dress with an arch that was completely innovative in its construction. We had to make a double of this dress for Kate Walsh, who arrived a few days before the shoot, so we all crossed our fingers that it would be as beautiful on her body as it was on Philippine's physique, and it was." Walsh's look is further exaggerated with an Elsa Peretti snake necklace meant to feel a little tacky and poke fun at her American sense of style.
Mindy's fellow band member Étienne (Jin Xuan Mao) has a wardrobe full of pieces bought from luxury retailer and vintage sites for season three. In the first episode, Fitoussi reveals he wears items from Parisian shop Addicted, along with the above sheer Bershka leggings. She sourced plenty of Cavalli pieces for him throughout the rest of the season.
Mindy's (Ashley Park) jumpsuit was bought from the Mugler fashion house by the wardrobe department, meant to reflect her explosive joy when she sings Dua Lipa's "Don't Start Now" onstage. Many of Mindy's stage costumes, sourced from young designers that work in the drag scene, were a subtle salute to Lido cabaret, an establishment that recently closed in Paris.
Mugler Sheer Spiral Leggings ($521)
Camille wears the statement piece with thick opticals, denim, and a Louis Vuitton Twist PM crossbody bag.
Balmain Graffiti-Print Aviator Leather Jacket ($3,412, originally $5,650)
The custom bikini coordinates are accessorized with L.G.R Twiga sunglasses and Tods raffia sandals.
The DSquared2 double-breasted blazer coat is layered over a Stella McCartney top and Louis Vuitton shorts. She finished the look with a vintage Christian Lacroix headscarf, Gucci bag, Paul & Joe socks, and Malone Souliers shoes.
Isabel Marant Dawson Lace Detailed Blouse in Light Pink ($598, originally $1,190)
One of Emily's most colorful outfits, her Essentiel Antwerp multicolor intarsia knit sweater is styled with a Dundas metallic zipper-front skirt, Maison Skorpios green knee-high boots, and a pink Louis Vuitton Petit Malle bag.
Dundas Metallic Tanner Skirt ($820, originally $1,490)
Emily's pink feather cape is important to the plot line of the story, shares Fitoussi. It marks one of the last times she wears the bright fuchsia shade of pink, which we saw her in often throughout the first two seasons. Now, Emily has evolved into a more Parisian look with a softer palette, and Sylvie's more muted aesthetic is rubbing off on her.
"When I knew that she was supposed to fall [from the Eiffel Tower in her dream], I wanted her to look like a paradise bird," Fitoussi said. She custom-created the cape from scratch and then had it sent to Marcy Plumes, who dyed the feathers pink and red to complement the Magda Butrym dress worn underneath. Fitoussi told Netflix she was inspired by visions of Jean-Paul Goude's ad for Chanel starring Vanessa Paradis. The look is finished with a pair of mint Casadei platform pumps.
Magda Butrym Printed Cutout Georgette Minidress ($868, originally $1,240)
Her bright topper is paired with black trousers and a Léclisse Rotonde bag.
The colorful jacket is styled over a Louis Vuitton tweed cropped tank and Ines de la Fressange pants secured with a vintage Miu Miu belt. Emily accessorizes with a Valentino bag, Essentiel Antwerp shoes, and GCDS glasses.
The black-and-white anatomy cardigan has Schiaparelli's signature avant-garde metal hardware shaped into brass ears, and is crafted from ecru denim with black leather trim.
Schiaparelli Anatomy Cardigan Jacket ($6,903)
The graphic patterned statement piece is capped off with purple Skorpios suede boots and a yellow transparent Tod's jacket. Prada's yellow triangle leather shoulder bag completes the look.
The gradient chainmail dress is worn on a date night out with Alfie.
The archival piece was layered over a JC de Castelbajac top and Emanuel Ungaro skirt — and styled with Louis Vuitton shoes and Simone Wild socks.
The checkered bra is actually part of a bikini set, and coordinated underneath a Barbara Bui pre-fall 2017 collection jacket.
The archival polka-dot piece is worn over a striped Celine athletic knit sports bra and capped off with palazzo pants and Christian Louboutin Movida Jane patent leather platform pumps in bordeaux.
Confirmed to be one of Lily Collins's favorite Emily looks in season three, the structural top is styled with low-rise cotton Miu Miu shorts, sheer Falke tights, and Christian Louboutin's Superyaz platform velvet sandals.
This statement jacket, made from purple synthetic ruffles, is worn over a Giuseppe Di Morabito floral print bustier dress left over from season two, which Fitoussi felt called for extra panache with an exaggeration of proportion.
The blown-up houndstooth print purple coat is styled over Swiss designer Kevin Germanier's neon knitted separates. Germanier was tapped multiple times throughout the season for his unique beaded and feathered pieces. Emily caps off the look with GCDS yellow shoes.
The neon checked piece is worn over a Petit Bateau striped top with cobalt Ines de la Fressange sailor pants, a Pierre Hardy bag, Miu Miu shoes, and Emily's gold initial "E" necklace from Vanrycke Paris.
Emily has a couture moment when she wears this fall 2019 high-neck ruffled rosette design from Giambattista Valli's archives.
Camille completes the look with Patou trousers, Zeus + Dione sunglasses, and Nodaleto boots.
Emily accessorizes her vintage Courreges minidress with Valentino sunglasses and Seymoure gloves.
Emily's high-low dress looks stylish paired with Terry de Havilland disco platforms, a Carel scuba tote, Miu Miu sunglasses, and a Nach Bijoux necklace.
Camille styles the white blazer as a dress with Roger Vivier embellished loafers, Valentino cat-eye sunglasses, and a Patou wicker bag.
Mindy coordinates her MSGM crop top with MSGM tweed fringe shorts, a Maison Michel Paris hat, Terry de Havilland rose-gold platforms, and a Roger Vivier raffia bag.
The Maison Michel Paris hat, which features a black chain around half the rim of the fedora, is styled with a bright-orange blazer.
Emily's Mary Katrantzou Rodrizo bird dress is styled with a printed Vassilis Zoulias jacket, Maison Skorpios leather boots, and a checkered bucket hat.
Emily wears this memorable mixed-print dress with a blue Moynat Paris leather bag.
The affordable acid-wash tie-dye set is styled with Terry de Havilland platforms and a graphic print envelope clutch.
Julien pairs his vintage denim from Levi's with a neon T-shirt and an orange jacket.
Emily wears her hair up to show off the backless cut on her fuchsia Vassilis Zoulias dress.
The tweed miniskirt, finished with gold buttons down the front, is styled with a hot-pink cold-shoulder top and a Mark Cross 1845 mini leather trunk bag.
Emily wears this strapless cotton dress with delicate Tana Chung jewels.
Emily wears the Zara vest unbuttoned to reveal her Maje bow sweater, Valentino logo belt, and Miu Miu houndstooth skirt. The look is further accessorized with a chunky pearl choker and Roger Vivier mini heart wallet.
Emily's two-toned Balmain dress is a statement in and of itself, accessorized minimally with delicate jewelry.
Emily wears a vintage Courreges checked jacket, highlighting the yellow shade with her Prada Cleo bag, wool fedora, and Seymoure leather gloves.
The bright graphic-print jacket is accessorized with Christian Louboutin's pink Marie Jane ruffle tulle bag and Gianvito Rossi turquoise ankle-tie sandals.
Emily showcases her love for print mixing in an Alice + Olivia blouse worn over a Re/Done henley cropped tank and finished with Ronny Kobo's snakeskin-print skirt. Accessories include Christian Louboutin's multicolor Gorgona booties and an ivory Aldo purse.
Her Ganni separates are cinched with a Rag & Bone belt and coordinated with a Patricia Field bag, Elie Saab sandals, and a Tana Chung rose-gold necklace.
Emily's Alexandre Vauthier strapless tulle dress is cinched with a vintage Chanel belt.
Emily has a high-low moment in Chanel, styling this resort 2020 jacket over a Brandy Melville plaid skirt. The look is finished with a Staud Bissett bag, Kangol bucket hat, Christian Louboutin So Kate collage booties, and Chanel logo stud earrings.
Emily's off-the-shoulder Christian Louboutin dress has a subtle chevron print and is styled with Cosmoparis embellished pumps.
Emily's white one-shoulder cocktail dress, with its asymmetrical hem, is the work of Stephane Rolland Couture.
Emily styles her floral Off-White puffer jacket and dress with a pink beret, as one does.