Everything You Need to Know If You're Booking a Trip to Havana
No matter their political view on the current government of the island, most people who've visited Cuba agree there isn't another place in the world quite like it!
Lately, the country has been prominently displayed on headlines — from its medical achievements to the Obamas' historic visit and even Chanel's 2017 Resort fashion show. With this surge of interest and a loosening in the restrictions to travel to Cuba, you've probably seen your social media flooded with vacation photos from Havana. And if the gorgeous sights of the city have given you the travel bug, here are the basics you'll need for your trip, including a brief (but important) history lesson, travel prep tips, and a list of spots you cannot miss.
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The History You Need to Know
Cuba has kind of a lot going on. Here's the basic historical context: After breaking free from Spain’s colonial rule, Cuba was under various forms of US military control and US-backed leaders, like dictator Fulgencio Batista, until a popular uprising put Fidel Castro in power. After Castro assumed leadership in 1959 and a failed US-led Bay of Pigs invasion made relations worse, the US imposed a suffocating trade embargo in the island. This embargo severely diminished resources in Cuba (presently, that means everything from food to internet) and further isolated Cubans already facing limitations on their individual freedoms.
Alongside the embargo was a travel ban for Americans, which affected the largest Cuban population outside of Cuba (Cuban-Americans). This ban, unfortunately, paired well with Fidel’s discriminatory "exit visa" requirement, restricting the travel of Cubans who openly criticize the government. Now that Obama officially gave the thumbs up on transitioning the two countries from enemy to frenemy status, there is a palpable frenzy of Americans packing their bags and updating their Instagram to get there before it changes.
Why You Might Want to Go
Whether you have an emotional connection to the place or seek a firsthand look at the complex politics surrounding Cuba, you should go. If you're thirsting for a Caribbean experience that isn't overrun with private beaches or de facto segregated tourism (where tourists and a country's residents don’t interact), you should go.
For me, a first generation (non-Cuban) American, Cuba is an idiosyncratic, vibrant, cultured, and incredibly beautiful place. There are things about Cuba, for better or worse, that I likely will never see again in my lifetime. For example, there are no advertisements anywhere in Cuba, and in their theoretical places are colorful socialist slogans and images of Che Guevara painted on billboards and the sides of buildings. There are interracial couples as far as the eye can see. The streets are filled with makers who have used every kind of upcycled material to create art, jewelry, and furniture. There are few homeless people. It’s one of the only places that I, a woman, can walk alone at night and not worry about my safety. And then, of course, there’s a big aesthetic pull for many: Americana nostalgia for classic cars from the '50s and a colonial backdrop. If you decide to travel to Cuba, proceed with the awareness that you are neither entering a wonderland, nor a museum.
Preparing For Your Trip
- Getting there: Traveling to Cuba on a US passport involves a little more prep work than the average trip abroad. While restrictions have loosened, the official word is that you should register for a special license. Many also opt to go with people-to-people programs with cultural/educational components, and still others take their chances at getting fined and simply book travel to Cuba by way of a third country, like Mexico or Canada.
- Where to stay: Depending on your budget, you have a couple of lodging options. Hotels offer a piece of history and Cuban architecture, some amenities like internet and TV, and tend to cost about the same as staying in a major US city. Alternatively, you can find a more affordable place to stay, bed and breakfast style, through a Cuban government rental program called Casas Particulares. AirBnB recently seized the opportunity and features these casas on its site, so booking is relatively painless. I recommend staying in a casa over a hotel, which generates income for a Cuban family and allows tourists a chance to connect with locals.
- How to deal with finances: If your only bank accounts are tied to US banks, you’ll want to withdraw a boatload of cash and convert it to euros before you leave — you will get a much better exchange rate to CUC (Cuban convertible pesos) than the 10 to 13 percent penalty coming out of a conversion from US dollars.
What to See
- Hotel Nacional de Cuba: This hotel was designed by New Yorkers in the 1920s, served briefly as Fidel Castro and Che Guevara’s headquarters during the Cuban Missile Crisis, and is a frequent host to many world-famous musicians, artists, writers, and politicians.
- Coppelia: The film Strawberry and Chocolate, directed by two Cubans, provides some food inspiration for your trip. Check out Coppelia, one of the largest ice cream parlors in the world. For a bite, make a reservation at La Guarida, which was transformed from the protagonist's apartment in the film to a restaurant in an effort to preserve the story.
- Museo de la Revolución: The Museum of the Revolution is housed, fittingly, in what used to be the presidential palace. The museum offers countless photos and other memorabilia documenting Fidel Castro’s ascent to power and even has a glass-shielded war yacht, Granma, on display.
- Havana Bay and El Malecón: I highly recommend unwinding from a long day of walking in the sun by sitting on the edge of the bay. There will be a ton of people doing the same thing — chatting, flirting, playing reggaeton on their cellphones, or watching the rowboats bob in the water while the sun sets. If you want to take a walk, you can do so along El Malecón, a five-mile promenade bordering the water.
- Museo del Ron: The Museum of Rum is not a rum distillery, but rather a short walk-through of Havana Club that ends with a rum tasting. The tour explains the entire rum production process, starting from the sugar cane, and includes a very sobering analysis of colonization, slavery, and economics of Cuba. Your tour will likely also include some sardonic commentary about the embargo’s effect on Cuban popular opinion.
- The Hemingway haunts: If you're an Ernest Hemingway fan, you'll want to check out the salmon pink Hotel Ambos Mundos, where he lived for seven years, and grab a daiquiri from the (also salmon-colored) Floridita, Hemingway’s favorite bar. His residence, Finca Vigía, is also located in Havana and is now a museum.
Fun Things to Do
- Music and dancing: The street music in Cuba is unbelievable. You will of course hear classic songs songs like "Guantanamera" and "Hasta Siempre," and you'll also find the very Cuban styles of bolero, son, guajira, and danzón, so brush up on some Buena Vista Social Club. For flashy cabaret, hit the Tropicana — you’ll find the low-key spots easily on your own. If you are a salsera or salsero, consider taking a casino (Cuban salsa) class, then put your skills to work at Café Cantante or another of the countless nightclubs in Havana.
- Walking tours of Old Havana: These tours are bookable through hotels, which often have connections to tourism companies (or host them in-house). They're an organized and informative way to see a breathtaking ground view of Cuban art, architecture, and historical monuments, and the guides will usually tell you the best place to buy that souvenir case of cigars you will obviously bring back with you.
- Other cities to visit: Cuba may be small, but there is much to see. If you're able to hit multiple cities on your trip, consider looking into Trinidad, Santiago de Cuba, Varadero and Holguin, Camagüey, Cienfuegos, Santa Clara, Bayamo, and Matanzas. The beaches are stunning and there are buses every 30 minutes from Havana that can take you to the ones located east, like Bacuranao, Mégano, Santa María, Boca Ciega, and Guanabo.