After The New York Times declared that Halston was, in fact, the man behind the pillbox in a 1973 profile, Oleg called the claim "an outright lie." According to Steven Gaines's 1991 book, Simply Halston: The Untold Story, Oleg alleged that while Halston might have been the one to physically make the hat worn by Jackie to the inauguration, he created the initial design. "A pillbox hat may not be important, but the truth is," Oleg wrote.
While it's still up for debate whether Oleg played a role in the hat's design, there's no denying that Halston's creation made both him and Jackie style-setters. In fact, Halston's star continued to rise throughout the '70s, before things took a turn for the designer in the '80s after he famously lost the right to design under his own name. Then things got worse: In 1988, Halston tested positive for HIV, and on March 26, 1990, he died of lung cancer complicated by HIV, though his name lives on through his brilliant designs.
Watch Halston on Netflix to learn more about the designer's rise, fall, and role in making Jackie Kennedy a fashion icon for the ages.