I can't be alone in admitting that one of my favorite pastimes is sitting in front of my magnifying vanity mirror and staring deeply into each and every pore for something worth popping. The obsession began when I was a teenager and grew with fervor as I watched YouTube videos of experts extracting the grossest of things . . . I agree it's gross, but it's seriously addicting.
But all of this came to a halt when I started getting professional facials. Esthetician after esthetician warned me about the havoc I was wreaking on my precious skin by putting two fingers together and pressing. They said that because I was still in my 20s, I was lucky enough to have time to reverse some of the damage I had already caused, but that if I kept this habit up, I'd wind up scarred and hyperpigmented to the max.
There are a few reasons picking is a problem. Not only does it cause the inflammation to become worse and spread the acne elsewhere on your skin, but you also damage the skin around the pimple when you try to pop it, explains Bella Schneider, celebrity facialist and founder of LaBelle Day Spas & Salons.
Picking your face can also cause discoloration or postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. While these darker areas eventually go away, they can take a long time to heal if you're not treating them properly. Already picked and need a remedy? Here, we asked top skin experts to share their best-kept secrets for caring for the side effects of overpicking.
Remember what we said about acne bacteria spreading all over the place when you touch it, even in the smallest spots? Your hands and nails are some of the dirtiest parts of your body since they're most exposed to germs and bacteria and everything you touch. If you keep touching your face, you keep putting the bacteria and oils on it, which leads to more acne, explains Karen Machia, esthetician at The Spa at Stowe Mountain Lodge in Stowe, Vermont.
To change the behavior of picking, Dr. Heather Woolery-Lloyd, MD, a dermatologist and skin pigmentation expert in Miami, says stop as soon as (or before!) you start, and then apply an acne medication or moisturizer on the area to serve as a reminder not to pick.
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2Keep the area clean.
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Most people who are picking at their face are picking at pimples, so it is important to address the "cause" of the picking in the first place. Dr. Woolery-Lloyd recommends using an acne treatment with salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide to help prevent breakouts. "A salicylic acid cleanser or treatment product may be especially helpful because it also acts as a gentle exfoliator to smooth the skin," she says. "For more severe acne, see a dermatologist to get started on a prescription regimen."
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3Wear SPF year-round.
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It's easier to remember to slather on sunscreen when it's blazing-hot outside, but the sun — and its harmful UV rays — still shines in Winter. And when sun exposure hits the surface of those pigmented scars, it only makes them even more hyperpigmented and visible. Not only should you try to shop SPF-laden products, from a tinted moisturizer to foundation and cover-up, but you should also be mindful of applying SPF on the regular, even when it's cloudy or cold outside.
Using a top-notch moisturizer is especially important when treating and healing scarred or pigmented skin. It's these quality ingredients that will work hard to promote your skin's natural healing capacities. "Look for moisturizers with replenishing oils such as moringa, argan, coconut, and extra-virgin olive oil, as well as aloe vera, calendula, chamomile, and other natural healers," suggests Schneider. Her go-to is Specific Beauty Replenishing Moisture Complex ($13), which has grapeseed and vitamin E to protect the skin's moisture barrier and fight free-radical damage.
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5Incorporate products with vitamin C.
No matter your skin troubles, this nutrient works wonders, but it's especially useful for those battling blotches and scarring. "Vitamin C is a natural melanin (what causes pigmentation) inhibitor," explains Molly Lamb, esthetician and owner of Skin by Molly in Brooklyn, New York. It's also excellent for brightening, which makes it ideal for those dealing with acne scars. She recommends applying a serum with vitamin C, like SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic ($165), under your sunscreen to prevent it from oxidizing quickly.
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6Exfoliate with acids.
At this point, you've probably noticed the amount of acids used in skin care — glycolic, lactic, salicylic, you name it. They're known as hydroxy acids, and they work to smooth, brighten, and tighten the skin barrier. But one acid you're probably not used to hearing about is kojic acid, a chemical derived from mushrooms. It's commonly used in spot-fading products because of its ability to lighten pigment and even remove dark spots. Look for products that contain kojic acid, such as iS Clinical Pro-Heal Serum Advance Plus ($148).
This product is everywhere, for good reason. Not only is it being hailed as the only topical antiwrinkle treatment, but retinol is also known to exfoliate the skin naturally and encourage cell turnover. Anna Avaliani, MD, a cosmetic and laser skincare specialist, explains that this improves pigmentation and also treats active acne. Try Kate Somerville DermalQuench Liquid Lift + Retinol Advanced Resurfacing Treatment ($98).
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8Try chemical peels.
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For moderate to severe scars and hyperpigmentation, chemical peels containing AHAs or BHAs are very effective. Schneider explains that these peels remove the dead skin cells and the harmed skin cells affected by the acne. Speak to your dermatologist or esthetician about which peel is best for you, since the peel strength can be modified to treat your specific skin and trouble spots.
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9Consider laser.
Image Source: POPSUGAR Photography / Diggy Lloyd
If your acne scarring is not responding to over-the-counter treatment, there are plenty of procedures, such as lasering, that can promote collagen production and lift and retexture those dark spots. Fractional laser resurfacing is one option — it involves short bursts of high energy that target specific spots on the face. "Following several laser treatments, postacne scarring shows improved texture and appearance," says Dr. Avaliani. She also recommends PicoSure Focus Laser, which she hails as the gold-standard treatment for acne scars. "PicoSure's advanced laser technology can fade acne scars and improve the skin's texture to help you feel confident in your own skin again."
