How to Add Volume to a Lob or Bob Haircut
I Used Hidden Hair Extensions to Add Volume to My Lob, and I'll Never Go Back
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I've always coveted a chic, voluminous lob like the ones you see on celebrities walking the red carpet. I have fine hair — and a lot of it — so I benefit from having zero layers to make it look fuller. But while I've always favored a bob or lob haircut, I also suffer from some pretty bad hair breakage around my hairline, which prevents me from reaching my all-one-length-haircut dreams.
Since moving to London a year ago, the combination of the city's hard water, regular bleaching sessions at the salon, and a poor decision to get curtain bangs earlier this year (so many regrets) has caused the front section of my hair to become much shorter than the rest of the hair on my head.
So when I visited my salon a few months ago for my regular root touch-up and trim, I begged my colorist to tell me how she maintains a long, blunt haircut while still getting it bleached regularly. Her secret? A few strategically placed tape-in hair extensions around her face. This led me down a rabbit hole of information relating to hair extensions and eventually to Adam Cooke, a stylist at Samantha Cusick London in Notting Hill. This salon (and Cooke) understood that I wanted a subtle transformation rather than a huge bombshell makeover, and since they exclusively use invisible tape-in hair extensions (just like my colorist recommended), I didn't have to make any tough decisions about which salon to visit.
Read on to find out everything you need to know about using hair extensions to add volume and how to care for them once you do. Plus, check out my before-and-after photos, which totally changed what I thought about hair extensions.
How Long Is the Tape-In Hair Extensions Fitting?
At Samantha Cusick London, there are two different types of hair extension appointments: hair filler and all-out volume and added length. Since my goal was to add volume to my hair, I had a hair filler appointment, which took just under an hour and included the extension fitting, a quick cut to blend in the extensions, and styling.
Why Choose Tape-In Hair Extensions?
There are a few reasons I chose tape-in extensions. Firstly, they require the least maintenance of all the types of hair extensions (compared to micro-rings and bonds) and also offer the least commitment, since I only needed four pieces of hair fitted to achieve my desired volume.
The reason I chose The London Hair Lab's invisible tape-in extensions specifically is because, unlike many other brands, the tape at the top of the extension is hidden beneath a thin layer of hair, making them nearly impossible to spot. Cooke explained that this is particularly important for people with lighter hair colors, because the tape is more easily seen on these shades than on darker roots.
Another trick for tape-in extensions is that good-quality hair pieces, when cared for properly, can be used again and again. "On each extension, there's a double-sided tape, so when you come for a refit, we use a product to dissolve the tape — which loosens the hair extension — before removing any little bits of tape caught in your hair," Cooke explained of the refit appointment process. "Then we wash and blow-dry your hair, reattach new tape, and refit the same hair pieces."
And before you ask, when I questioned Cooke on whether you could try to remove the tape extensions yourself at home, he answered with a firm and immediate no. "You could try, but you do risk pulling your hair out."
How Are Tape-In Extensions Applied?
Ahead of my appointment, I visited the salon for a consultation to discuss what my hair extension goal was and to ensure the salon had the correct shade of hair extensions in stock. I was instructed to wash and straighten my hair the morning of my appointment, and when I arrived to have the extensions fitted, Cooke quickly blow-dried my hair smooth to ensure it was perfectly straight.
He explained that you can think of each individual tape extension like a sandwich. To attach the piece, he takes a millimeter-thin slice of hair and sticks one half of the sandwich underneath the section of hair. Then, he places the second half on top and uses a small pair of pliers to gently squeeze the two halves together.
Cooke explained that one of the most important stages of inserting hair extensions is cutting them afterward to ensure they blend seamlessly with the rest of your hair. The stylist doesn't cut your real hair, but rather they'll trim and shape the extensions so they look natural and undetectable. The only exception is if you have extensions fitted for length, rather than volume. "If you have very thick hair with a blunt line, and you're hoping to achieve really long hair with extensions, we will have to soften the ends before fitting the extensions so it will all blend together," he said. "Otherwise, the hair extensions will be very obvious."
Once this was done, he styled my hair and I was out the door all in just under an hour.
How Much Do Tape-In Hair Extensions Cost?
The cost of tape-in hair extensions varies widely and is dependent on many factors. For example, the total cost is determined by the type of hair used, the length of the hair piece, how many pieces you need inserted to achieve your desired result — as well as the salon's own pricing and even the city you live in.
At Samantha Cusick London, they use extensions by The London Hair Lab, with pricing starting from $105 for hair filler, which is what I had. Personally, I required four 17-inch extensions to add volume around my hairline, which cost $210. This price included the cost of the hair itself and the stylist fitting the extensions, cutting the hair, and styling.
Another thing to factor in is the cost of the refit appointments, which are required every six to eight weeks and usually cost around half the amount of the original visit.
While still an investment, hair filler tape-in extensions are the more affordable option when compared with all-out volume and length appointments, which can cost as much as $1,000 (more at some salons). When it comes to adding volume, though, Cooke said a little can go a long way. "If a client comes in asking for more volume around the front but isn't sure they're ready to commit to hair extensions, then we recommend trying one in each side to start." He said you'll be surprised how big of a difference one piece of hair will make to the overall appearance of fullness.
The Before and After
How to Care For Your Tape-In Hair Extensions at Home
Immediately after leaving my appointment, I was emailed the maintenance information, which explained a few important dos and don'ts. First, I was instructed to avoid washing my hair for the first 24 hours to ensure I gave the tape enough time to adhere properly. After that period, most of the care instructions were obvious, like being gentle when brushing your hair.
The main tip was to avoid applying masks and conditioning treatments to the root. "Still use regular treatments — like Olaplex — in the rest of your hair, especially if your hair is bleached," Cooke said. "It's important to keep using the products that keep your hair healthy, but don't put them directly onto the tape at the root or you'll risk the tape slipping out of your hair." He did emphasize, though, to always shampoo around the tape itself. "Many people think it'll make the hair extension slip out, but it won't. It's important to still use shampoo at the root to avoid product buildup or getting a dry scalp. Don't be scared of washing, just be mindful of them being there and don't be too rough." He also approved my current haircare routine, and you can check out all the products I use ahead.
