Meet the 14 Geniuses Behind Your Favorite Beauty Products

Min Kim
Min Kim
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Maybe you can't pack a makeup bag without Urban Decay's Primer Potion or imagine the days when you couldn't just pop into Drybar for a blowout. Anastasia Beauty might be your favorite Instagram feed (it has over 10 million followers, after all), and you love watching YouTube celebrities show how to use the latest Tarte, Benefit, and Too Faced launches. Perhaps every time MAC reveals a new collaboration, you set a Google calendar reminder to shop it. And when Jen Atkin created her own hair care line, you were ecstatic because you could finally own the tools to get cool-girl, Kardashian waves at home. These are all cult brands and products, and they achieved that status for a reason: genius strategy mixed with focused, innovative vision. Behind every beauty empire is a talented person with the coveted job of creative director.

Creative directors are very important figures to your beloved brands. At each company, the role means something different. For smaller brands, it could be the founder who also has his or her hand in every project. At larger corporations, it might be the employee who designs the packaging, comes up with the product concepts, or oversees the greater vision of each collection. Some creative directors are industry vets (like Sonia Kashuk), while others are teens with brilliant ideas (Taylor and Ally Frankel of Nudestix).

Regardless, these are some of the biggest badasses in the biz. They are not afraid to take risks and even fail. To spotlight what they do, we interviewed 14 of them (mostly over email) about everything from their greatest regrets to unusual ways to use top products (bet you never knew dry shampoo can double as deodorant). Many of them had similar advice: use social media to spread your message, and trust your gut! But you should also "be prepared to shed dangerous amounts of blood, sweat, and tears," according to Dineh Mohajer, founder of Hard Candy and Smith & Cult.

Whether you one day dream of being a creative director or just want to learn more from the masterminds who invent the beauty goods you can't live without, we promise everyone can learn something from these boss ladies and gents.

Wende Zomnir, Urban Decay
Don Flood

Wende Zomnir, Urban Decay

Share your career path!
I was in advertising and marketing and I always knew I wanted to do something entrepreneurial. Most of the accounts I worked on were popular-culture oriented, so I loved all of that. But I've always loved makeup, too. I'm from Texas — it's in your blood when you're from Texas — and I've always loved doing makeup on my friends. In fact, at 13 I got sent home from school for wearing too much makeup.

I met Sandy Lerner, and she wanted to start a makeup company [Urban Decay]. It was the perfect storm for me — something entrepreneurial, and it tapped into this whole fascination I had with what was happening in the marketplace, trends, and makeup.

What product have you developed that you are most proud of and why?
I might say I'm most proud of . . . gosh it's so hard because I love all of them — they're all like my children. But maybe our Original Eyeshadow Primer Potion? I think it has changed the way people looked at primer. It made it a necessity versus a weird thing that strange makeup-obsessed people use. It was the first primer that really showed people how long your makeup could last, and I had a lot of fun developing it. It was the first one that was a complete concept and the first product I ever created that was a real star product. You know we really put a lot of straight-up promotion behind it, and talked about it, educating people about it.

Wende Zomnir, Urban Decay
Don Flood

Wende Zomnir, Urban Decay

Which product didn't do as well as you expected? What did you learn from that experience?
I love it when you learn from experience. I had a couple of odd products that didn't do as well as I expected. I did a loose pigment shadow, and I was obsessed with loose pigment shadow because you get so much more brilliance out of the pigment — especially in the metallic and sparkly and duo chromatic shades. But at that time — about eight years ago — in the marketplace, we didn't really have YouTube with people educating their friends and subscribers on how to use different makeup.

If I launched loose pigment shadows now, there would be a bunch of YouTubers who would show their audience how to use them and they could be a success. I learned that you can't give up on products, because sometimes, they're just [launched] before their time.

Tell us one unexpected way you use a cult product.
I like to wear Moondust eye shadow wet. So I'll wet my brush with our setting spray to make it last extra, extra long and make the sparkle adhere even better.

What is your best advice to someone trying to break into the beauty industry in 2016?
Even though there is a lot of distribution available, I would really make sure you guard your distribution carefully and make sure you control it. Don't just put your product anywhere because someone will take it. Really decide what your brand stands for and where it should be distributed and how it should be presented. And take care of it, like a baby.

Shannon Dellimore, GlamGlow
Courtesy of GlamGlow

Shannon Dellimore, GlamGlow

Share your career path!
My mother worked for cosmetics companies, so I've always loved skin care and makeup, but I never dreamed I would actually start a skin care company. I worked as a paralegal at one of LA's top entertainment law firms when my husband, Glenn, and I founded GlamGlow. I was really scared to leave my full-time job to run the company, but Glenn, who has always been entrepreneurial and willing to take risks, encouraged me to take the leap. And I'm so glad he did! Working at such a highly demanding law firm taught me to be incredibly organized and detail-oriented so it really helped prepare me for GlamGlow.

What product have you developed that you are most proud of and why?
Our new product GlowStarter Mega Illuminating Moisturizer. Glenn and I have always developed products together, but GlowStarter was my idea from start to finish. Moisture is such a big category, and for GlamGlow to play there, it had to be a product I felt was missing from the market — a product that could disrupt the moisturizer category. We are all about glow, so a moisturizer that gave a beautiful glow was the perfect concept. I wanted a true skin care/makeup hybrid.

So what did that mean? A lightweight moisturizer packed with lots of hydration ingredients that easily absorbs into the skin and has a built-in luminizer, so it is two steps in one. It also had to smell incredible. I personally developed the fragrance, and I'm so proud to see so many people loving it. It smells like a yummy orange creamsicle. It's addictive!

Shannon Dellimore, GlamGlow
Courtesy of GlamGlow

Shannon Dellimore, GlamGlow

Which product didn't do as well as you expected? What did you learn from that experience?
That would be our BrightMud eye treatment. It is really an amazing product and has a cult following, but a lot of consumers didn't understand how to use it properly, so we decided to slowly phase it out. We are working on relaunching some new exciting eye treatments so stay tuned!

Tell us one unexpected way you use a cult product.
I am pretty low-maintenance when it comes to hair and makeup, which is why having gorgeous skin is so important to me! Our cult-favorite mask SuperMud makes pores virtually disappear and is the perfect pre-makeup treatment, but I use it as an overnight spot treatment if I feel a blemish coming up. I dab a spot on before bed and when I wake up in the morning the blemish is gone!

What is your best advice to someone trying to break into the beauty industry in 2016?
If you have a great product, share it with as many people as possible because your enthusiasm helps it grow. We knew our original mask YouthMud was special, and we shared it with as many friends, family, and influencers as possible. They loved the mask and shared it with their friends and family, and GlamGlow grew through word of mouth. I think young entrepreneurs ask for too much help from outsiders when breaking into the beauty business. My advice is to stay confident and true to your vision. Follow your gut and don't cloud it with other people's opinions because their ideas may not be right for your brand. Remember, the greater the risk, the greater the reward!

Daniel Kiyoi, Tarte
Bjorn Looss

Daniel Kiyoi, Tarte

Share your career path!
After college, I moved home to LA in hopes of finding design work for a "cool-Cali" brand with a sunny startup mentality and a built-in surf break at lunch. Turns out that didn't exist for a 22-year-old design enthusiast with next to zero experience in the "real world." So, I applied to a design placement agency as an office coordinator. I figured if I couldn't be a designer at the time, I could at least place other designers at cool-Cali companies until I was deemed worthy enough to be placed myself.

Fortunately for me, when I showed up to my interview for the office job, they confused me with another candidate, and I was interviewed to be a designer. (Life tip here, people: always carry your portfolio with you if you are looking for a job!) Luck was on my side. A week later I was placed at a temp design (!) job in the web department at Smashbox Cosmetics. I worked there on-and-off for a few months until a permanent position in their packaging department opened up, and I swooped in and took it. Thus began my love affair with the beauty industry.

I eventually moved up to be an art director there and was very happy (for a few years), until I was infected by a little disease known as the New York Dream. It attacked me quietly and quickly. Smashbox was acquired by Estée Lauder, and a few months after the merger, I used it to secure a merchandising job at Bumble & bumble in NYC. I loved that they had a distinct personality and a very clear visual voice. They were a New York newbie's dream situation: trendy/good-looking people, great product, amazing culture. I was in heaven.

I would have been there longer, but a little brand called Tarte stole me away after 11 months. They were small back then and needed a design upgrade. It was the best move I could have ever made. The brand has since become my family. I've been there nearly five years and am so proud of the things we've accomplished and the growth we have experienced.

What product have you developed that you are most proud of and why?
I'm very proud of our new Rainforest of the Sea product line. It's incremental to our core line, and it's been wildly successful since it launched in April. For many years the Amazonian clay and maracuja products were our two main ingredients (sourced straight from the Amazon rainforest). A few years ago, we started talking about adding in an additional ingredient to round out the line. All of the products have been really fun to develop, because they are infused with a complex derived from the ocean and are packaged in ocean-inspired prints. I did a lot of hand-drawn patterns and textures for the packaging. The logo was even originally created with a paintbrush and ink to give it a really organic look and feel.

Daniel Kiyoi, Tarte
Min Kim

Daniel Kiyoi, Tarte

Which product didn't do as well as you expected? What did you learn from that experience?
Two summers ago, we created a palette called Golden Days and Sultry Nights. The print on the packaging was really cute, but it didn't do as well as we hoped for one main reason: there weren't enough shadow pans in the palette! We only featured five large shades, and I think people didn't perceive it as a good value. Even though the packaging, shadow formula, and size of the pans were all good, the actual shade range offering was not enough. We learned that customers want a ton of shades in palettes! We've never made that mistake again and our palette business is so strong we can't even keep them in stock!

Tell us one unexpected way you use a cult product.
Well, I'm not a makeup artist, so I can't give you too many hacks from personal experience. However, I can tell you that I use our Maracuja Oil for everything! I use it on my face, cuticles, feet, lips, neck, and elbows. But the use that I particularly love is on my scalp. It's perfect for helping you get rid of unwanted dandruff and giving you a healthier scalp overall. Just part your hair and put a few drops directly on the skin at night and sleep with it. You'll notice a healthier scalp that is flake-free and happy. I can't claim this, but I'm also convinced it can give you healthier, shinier hair, too.

What is your best advice to someone trying to break into the beauty industry in 2016?
Follow as many social girls as possible! Influencers are the future of beauty. So if you have a good understanding of social and know who the key players are (and will be), you will be a huge asset to any brand.

Jen Atkin, Ouai
Mike Rosenthal

Jen Atkin, Ouai

Share your career path!
I wanted to be a hairstylist and moved to LA after high school. I started as a receptionist and learned a lot about the business side of things. And after assisting Andy LeCompte and going on tour with Madonna, my schedule outside the salon became busier and busier. After being in the industry for so many years and trying so many different hair products, I felt like there wasn't a line that myself or my friends could relate to so I created Ouai for real women. They're luxury products that are simple, affordable, and classic in a world full of loud noise.

What product have you developed that you are most proud of and why?
I'm #OUAIaddicted to them all, but I'm really proud of the Treatment Masque. It's literally a five-minute hair makeover. With most masks, you're expected to keep it in your hair for 30 minutes or longer to see the transformative effects, but this one will literally restore the shine and health of your hair in only five minutes. Plus, they come in easy-to-transport packets that are perfect for throwing in the gym bag or for on the go.

Jen Atkin, Ouai
Courtesy of Jen Atkin

Jen Atkin, Ouai

Which product didn't do as well as you expected? What did you learn from that experience?
The product that has been the hardest sell is the Soft Mousse. Unfortunately, people are so jaded when it comes to mousse, because they're used to the stiff, crunchy formulas of the '90s. I hope that they try the Ouai one and see that the days of crunchy curls and heavy formulas are gone! This mousse is literally so soft, touchable, and light on the hair and perfect for creating an effortless wave in the hair (without an iron). I suggest using with the diffuser attachment on the Dyson Supersonic blow dryer for a low-key, natural-looking wave.

Tell us one unexpected way you use a cult product.
A lot of people don't know this, but you can use the Texturizing Hair Spray before curling or styling dry hair for added hold and dry texture. It almost gives an airy matte finish to the hair.

What is your best advice to someone trying to break into the beauty industry in 2016?
Be humble, work hard, and don't try to compete with anyone else. There's enough to go around for all of us to be successful.

James Gager, MAC Cosmetics
MAC Cosmetics

James Gager, MAC Cosmetics

Share your career path!
Growing up, my best friend and I had an art school. We taught art classes to kids our own age and then went around to their parents and advised them on the progress of their children. We also had a greeting card business going door to door with a little catalog of cards; we would take orders, then go home and make them. I guess I had an entrepreneurial spirit in me at a very early age — and have never lost it. Before joining MAC, I was the creative director for Prescriptives for 20 years. I worked on the campaigns for Virtual Skin and the trendsetting All Skins campaign that identified the importance of diversity.

What collaboration have you developed that you are most proud of and why?
The collections that I have felt most personally engaged with were MAC Me Over and MACnificent Me. It's very different working with real people than celebrities. The experience was very satisfying. We picked the winners from our online contest, not just because they wanted to look pretty, but because they had heart and soul. They felt MAC makeup could help them in some way. We brought the winners to New York City; they worked with a world-renowned photographer, stylists, and amazing makeup artists to transform them and give them that extra push to be who they wanted to be. It was a very rewarding experience as it had emotion attached to it.

James Gager, MAC Cosmetics
MAC Cosmetics

James Gager, MAC Cosmetics

Which collection didn't do as well as you expected? What did you learn from that experience?
We did a collection with the amazing photographer Cindy Sherman. For her photographs, she transforms herself and then takes her own picture. With this collection, we gave her the products from the collection to create three visuals using all the colors. Unfortunately, people did not relate to the images. They were more works of art than aspirational makeup. Many people in the beauty and fashion industry loved the images, but unfortunately sales were not what we expected. I still found that collection so rewarding and am very proud of it. Sometimes what you think is cool is not cool to everyone else. It's about finding that balance.

Tell us how you use a cult product.
I love to use Prep + Prime Skin Refined Zone. It creates a flawless complexion by evening out your pores. Your skin texture looks incredible. It's great for men. I also love our colored Brow Gels. They smooth out your brows perfectly and are great for giving a light wash of color.

What is your best advice to someone trying to break into the beauty industry in 2016?
My advice is get ready for a ride! This industry is amazing, constantly changing, especially due to social media. You need to stay current in all areas of your life. It's best to have many interests and understand not only the world of beauty but also art, design, fashion. That will help you better understand makeup and create memorable products and collections. Be aware of everything around you. Lastly, know who you are, recognizing your strengths and weaknesses. Dream a lot!

Achelle Dunaway, Elf
Hans Kwiotek

Achelle Dunaway, Elf

Share your career path!
After graduating college 11 years ago, I packed up my bags and took a road trip with my mom for our own version of Thelma and Louise, traveling from California to New York with the dream of working in fashion. I landed a job at this little start-up called Elf Cosmetics and wowed them with my trend knowledge and love for designer goods on a budget (or, as I like to say, Champagne taste on a beer budget — I'm a huge bargain shopper). I began passionately creating products that had the quality of designer labels but with the accessible price point of mass to fill a gap in the market.

What product have you developed that you are most proud of and why?
That's like trying to pick your favorite child; I love all the 1,000+ products I've created over the years. If I had to choose I guess it would be my Patented Mascara & Shadow Shield. I'm all about finding ways to simplify your beauty routine, especially for more precision detailed looks like a smoky eye where fallout can cause a huge mess (nobody loves a raccoon eye). I often get consumers asking for tips on how to create a flawless smoky eye. So, I came up with the idea of a convenient reusable tool that would shield your skin so you could easily apply your mascara and shadow without error. It magnetizes powder so it doesn't fall on your face, and it helps create a barrier while you apply mascara, so it doesn't bleed on the skin. It's reversible so it fits both eyes, and it's washable for continued use.

Achelle Dunaway, Elf
Belathee

Achelle Dunaway, Elf

Which product didn't do as well as you expected? What did you learn from that experience?
That would have to be a holiday collection I created a few years ago. I was so inspired by my travels around the world and geometrical impact in architecture and fashion, I thought I would infuse it into the Elf packaging. We created these beautiful gold and white modern boxes with a geometric pattern and geometric makeup palettes. I think it was a bit too early for the trend to hit the mass market, so it didn't translate as well as I had hoped it would. I learned that trends need to be easily identifiable and translatable, and they should not be too abstract or early.

Tell us one unexpected way you use a cult product.
I love the Contouring Blush & Bronzing Powder in St. Lucia — it's one of my staples! And since I hate traveling with a million products in my makeup bag, this is my go-to product for working overtime and slaying the day! I use the bronzer also as an eye shadow and brow powder. And the blush as an eye shadow and as a mattifier top coat on top of my lip color.

What is your best advice to someone trying to break into the beauty industry in 2016?
Work hard and never lose your inner beauty. I remember when I first moved to NYC, a woman told me to lose my California vibe and dye my blond hair dark and not to smile as much. I took that as a challenge to stay the happy-go-lucky and vivacious individual that I am, because no career is worth losing your beautiful and unique identity.

Alli Webb, Drybar

Alli Webb, Drybar

Share your career path!
It all really started with my naturally curly, frizzy hair. I have always been obsessed with my hair and forever on a journey to discover how to give and get a great blowout. I spent years trying to find my passion and my "thing." I went to school for fashion marketing and worked for Nicole Miller in NYC in my early 20s. (I actually opened two NM boutiques in South Florida, with my brother and current business partner Michael, where we grew up). But I quickly realized that wasn't the path I wanted to stay on. That's when I finally decided to go to beauty school, and I absolutely fell in love. And so my professional hair career began.

I've been a hairstylist for almost 20 years now, and while I still dabbled in other areas, hair has always been it for me. I became a stay-at-home mom in 2005 and was home for almost five years with my boys. However, I quickly got the bug to get back out there and do something for myself. When I started a mobile blowout business, Straight at Home (I was only charging $40/blowout), it dawned on me that there was really nowhere for most women to go to get a great blowout in a fun, beautiful environment at an affordable price. I realized I needed to do this, so I teamed up with my brother, Michael Landau, and my husband, Cameron Webb, to help make Drybar a reality. I never dreamed it would turn into what it has!

What product have you developed that you are most proud of and why?
I'm sure everyone says this, but man I am so proud of all of them! But, I'm especially proud of Triple Sec, our three-in-one texturizer, volumizer, and dry shampoo. It smells fantastic and it really works. The mini version is always in my bag.

Alli Webb, Drybar

Alli Webb, Drybar

Which product didn't do as well as you expected? What did you learn from that experience?
Ah, Cream Soda didn't make it. But it evolved into Velvet Hammer, which is a pretty amazing hydrating control cream. While it was a bummer to have to discontinue Cream Soda, it just wasn't up to par. It's disappointing, but in the end we have a much better product. I'm a big believer in learning from your mistakes — it's how you grow.

Tell us one unexpected way you use a cult product.
I'd love to take credit for discovering this, but so many clients tell me they use Detox Shampoo as a deodorant in a pinch or to freshen up your sneakers! I also also mix our Chaser Shine Cream with my body lotion because it has amazing shimmer!

What is your best advice to someone trying to break into the beauty industry in 2016?
First and foremost, I think it requires genuine passion and dedication. It often appears that people are "overnight successes," but way more often than not, there are years of hard work and sacrifice behind it. In my case, I was an assistant in many salons for years, then drove around LA doing blowouts in women's homes before Drybar took off! And my business partner and brother got his first job at Nicole Miller by telling the CEO he'd sweep the floors if that was the only job available. Do whatever it takes to get your foot in the door then work your butt off to prove yourself!

Claudia Soare, Anastasia Beverly Hills
Anastasia Beverly Hills

Claudia Soare, Anastasia Beverly Hills

Share your career path!
Anastasia Beverly Hills is a family business that was created by my mom. Working with her is what I've always done. She wanted me to work my way up the ranks — know the business ins and outs, so that I understood each position from top to bottom. I worked my way up from sales assistant to president, covering each job along the way.

What product have you developed that you are most proud of and why?
It's hard to single out one product. Overall, I'm proud of everything I put out. Right now I’m particularly proud of the Glow Kits — it's a highlighter [set], and who doesn’t love a highlighter?! I treat product development as a creative process. From the time I work on something and see it finished, I'm very proud. The creative process is an interesting one, and everyone has their own system. Mine starts off with a little bit of business, figuring out what the brand needs. Then I get inside my mind and begin the journey for that product. After that, we make everything from scratch, unless it's a color extension. It comes down to the day-to-day details of perfecting the formula, mixing colors, designing packaging, creating a marketing strategy — everything right up to the launch! It's a labor of love and a very rewarding process, especially when I'm validated by fan reactions. They keep me motivated and inspired to do my best.

Claudia Soare, Anastasia Beverly Hills
Anastasia Beverly Hills

Claudia Soare, Anastasia Beverly Hills

Which product didn't do as well as you expected? What did you learn from that experience?
The first time we launched the Cream Contour Kits, a few of the colors came out too warm. There was immediate feedback from our customers, so I went back to the lab and tweaked all the shades to make them cooler. We relaunched the kits close to a year later. Thankfully, the second time around it was tremendously successful.

Tell us one unexpected way you use a cult product.
A lot of makeup artists I work with use our Clear Brow Gel to keep cowlicks and baby hairs in place. And, lately I'm noticing our followers apply our metallic eye shadows to the center of their lips over Liquid Lipstick to create contour and dimension.

What is your best advice to someone trying to break into the beauty industry in 2016?
Know what you're doing, know your customer, be as original as you can, and don't look to other brands for inspiration. If you're inspired by something that is already out there, you're not being innovative.

Jerrod Blandino, Too Faced
Too Faced

Jerrod Blandino, Too Faced

Share your career path!
My last job was at the mall. I worked for Estée Lauder in the mid '90s behind the makeup counter and quickly realized the industry needed a cutting-edge cosmetic brand that celebrated the fact that it was fun to be a girl and took the intimidation out of getting glammed up. With a credit card, a lot of prayer, and a dream, Too Faced happened. It's been almost 19 years, and we are now one of the most successful and beloved brands on the planet.

What product have you developed that you are most proud of and why?
Better Than Sex Mascara because mascara is the most difficult product to create and get right. There are so many variables — the formula, the component, the brush, the fiber, the glue that holds the fiber, and more! It took us three years and dozens of trials. When we got the final formula and the final brush that unlocked that formula, I saw the extraordinary results of the most luscious, thick, beautiful lashes I had ever seen. I screamed, "OMG! It's better than sex!" It's now the number one product that Sephora in the United States sells, and the number one mascara at Sephora stores around the world.

Jerrod Blandino, Too Faced
Too Faced

Jerrod Blandino, Too Faced

Which product didn't do as well as you expected? What did you learn from that experience?
I had this Ruby Slippers Red Eyeliner that never took off. I realized no one looks good when they look like they need Penicillin.

Tell us one unexpected way you use a cult product.
Hangover Replenishing Face Primer is one of our bestselling primers, but I use it as an overnight skin boosting serum when I'm feeling tired. The coconut water, probiotic-based ingredients, and hyaluronic acid make me feel 10 years younger.

What is your best advice to someone trying to break into the beauty industry in 2016?
You must have a very unique, authentic, and specific angle based in innovation that you and you alone will bring to the industry — whether it's formulation-specific, theme, or your distinct view of the world. You don't always have to do something better, but you do have to do something different and that's how you will carve out long-term success in the industry. Most importantly, never give up if you believe in your heart and your soul that you've got something the world needs.

Taylor (and her sister Ally) Frankel, Nudestix
Arline Malakian

Taylor (and her sister Ally) Frankel, Nudestix

Share your career path!
My sister and I were both high school students at the time. Along with our mom, Jenny (founder and president of Nudestix), we noticed that the beauty industry talked a lot about perfect and flawless makeup. Our generation is not about that — we want to embrace our uniqueness. Not only that, but today's new generation of beauties would rather sleep in an extra 10 minutes than do their makeup. We took these observations and created Nudestix, which celebrates easy, fast, effortless makeup!

What product have you developed that you are most proud of and why?
Hmm . . . I would probably say our Magnetic Eye Color Pencils. Here's a little insight into our creative process: we want to keep all of our products in pencil form and we focus on multipurpose makeup pencils. Thanks to the precision of a pencil, these eye pencils will be your eye shadow, eye liner, and highlighters. [We ask ourselves], how can we make the application super easy, fast, and effortless without compromising the formula?

Both my sister and I have very different skin types. My sister (Ally) has superoily skin, so whatever eye or face product she wore would rarely last the day. I have very dry and reactive skin. So it was important to create a product that was perfect for all skin types — oily, dry, and mature.

As millennials, we heart our planet. So we made sure that our products are preservative-free, paraben-free, cruelty-free, and preservative-free. To the labs! We set out to create beautiful nude shades in a creamy, long-wearing formula! And the Magnetic eye pencil was born!

Taylor (and her sister Ally) Frankel, Nudestix
Arline Malakian

Taylor (and her sister Ally) Frankel, Nudestix

Which product didn't do as well as you expected? What did you learn from that experience?
Our Skin pencils. We thought this was a supercool concept. Skin care in the form of pencils . . . I mean c'mon! But we think the problem was that it was a little too innovative, and girls were not used to the formula in this application. Our skin pencils are still available, but we thought they would be a bigger hit.

Tell us one unexpected way you use a cult product.
My fave unexpected beauty secret is using our Lip + Cheek Pencils on my eyes! By using the same color on your eyes, cheeks, and lips = monochromatic makeup = the bomb dotcom. You can use it in your eye crease or all over the eyelid. It's dope, trust me!

What is your best advice to someone trying to break into the beauty industry in 2016?
Find your niche. Create a product that is innovative + you feel is missing from the beauty industry! Don't launch a product or brand just to launch something. Be passionate and confident in your vision. Us girls can do anything we put our minds to.

Dineh Mohajer, Smith & Cult (Also Founder of Hard Candy)
Jason Cook

Dineh Mohajer, Smith & Cult (Also Founder of Hard Candy)

Share your career path!
At 20 years old, I was an overworked, disgruntled biochemistry student diligently headed on a path to medical school. Meanwhile, my desperate need for procrastination sent me on the hunt for a pastel baby blue nail lacquer to match my toes to a pair of Marc Jacobs sandals. The shade didn't exist, but I randomly stumbled upon a shocking blue shade at a small nail salon and mixed it with white, which yielded an opaque baby blue nail lacquer. Cut to the creation of Hard Candy, my first big break that took me from science to beauty. It turned out to be equally, if not more, intense and demanding as the rigorous premed curriculum.

As we grew at a dangerously rapid pace, I remained adamant about not following rules, which supported unfiltered creativity and led to revolutionary products. It also helped me make a bazillion and one mistakes on the business side. Thankfully, in the end, my shortcomings failed to prevent our success, since three years later Hard Candy was acquired by LVMH. Flash forward, I've accumulated infinitely more experiences in my past 20 years in the beauty industry. Smith & Cult is my newest brand and again, just as Hard Candy was, is a reflection of my experiences and perspective.

What product have you developed that you are most proud of and why?
When I introduced Hard Candy's pastel nail lacquer, it turned out to be the first of its kind: shades, names, packaging, and boutique distribution. The little jelly ring was something that I randomly happened upon at a party supply store while I was planning a friend's birthday (clearly I do a lot of stumbling upon). An enormous high point for me was creating the first-ever glitter eye pencil. It had never been done before, so there were no existing regulatory guidelines for safety and testing. It was great for me, because I had a huge head start in the market due to my disregard of policy (I'm not bragging because it certainly had its dark consequences). Of course, established beauty brands followed appropriate protocol, so it would take research and development on their end prior to the launch of a new invention.

It was shocking to me that my little invention — which I developed in a cosmetic lab way out in the middle of nowhere in Tennessee and which involved urging the lab to clog their eye pencil machines with glitter — carved out a billion-dollar category within the cosmetic industry. This is the kind of thing that keeps me passionate and obsessed about developing future generations of innovative formulas, packaging, branded photography/art, and footage.

Dineh Mohajer, Smith & Cult
Courtesy of Dineh Mohajer

Dineh Mohajer, Smith & Cult

Which product didn't do as well as you expected? What did you learn from that experience?
At Hard Candy, I launched a product called Two-some that turned out to be a disaster because of an oversight of the product development team. Sounds like I'm negating responsibility, but I'm not because all mistakes were ultimately a reflection of my shortcomings. The product was a double-sided, doe-foot wand with a blemish control treatment on one side and a concealer on the other. The viscosity of the concealer formula caused it to leak out of the component, which was literally a mess. We ended up having to scrap a lot of inventory and accept returns.

Tell us one unexpected way you use a cult product.
I heisted this one tip from genius makeup artist Vittorio Masecchia: swipe a bit of Smith & Cult The Shining Lip Lacquer over eye shadow for an otherworldly-pretty-alien-glowy look.

What is your best advice to someone trying to break into the beauty industry in 2016?
Be prepared to shed dangerous amounts of blood, sweat, and tears. While sharing products that I can stand behind is truly a privilege, it comes with a massive price. For the first year of both of Hard Candy and Smith & Cult, I was sleep deprived and extremely unhealthy. The pressure I put on myself during start-up periods is actually inhumane, but unfortunately it's common among entrepreneurs and usually a requirement for success. My advice would be to follow what you are passionate about, create products that you would actually want to use, find unique ways to express your authentic voice through branding, packaging, social media, etc. Teaming up exclusively with like-minded business and/or creative partners that share reciprocal trust and respect with you is critical. You need to be on the same page in terms of art direction and business strategy in order to be both comfortable and successful.

Howard McLaren, R+Co
Howard McLaren

Howard McLaren, R+Co

Share your career path!
The first time I realized I actually had a career in hair was when I was in Paris. It was my first shoot for French Vogue. Then I moved to New York, and I was in brand development for over 25 years at Bumble & Bumble, with roles in everything from creating products to shooting campaigns and building education, which set a new standard in our industry.

Now with R+Co, I've combined all of that knowledge and am now able to use social media to really create products that consumers want. I always say that at Bumble & Bumble, I created products for the hairdressers. With R+Co, I'm creating products for the consumer, and social media has truly helped do that. With Instagram, Snapchat, and all these social media channels, we are able to figure out what the right products are. It's given us a transparency to how we create products.

What product have you developed that you are most proud of and why?
I would say it's our Badlands Dry Shampoo Paste. It's a product I actually had in my pocket for about seven years before I could convince R+Co to make it! I liken it to a makeup that starts as a lotion but turns into a powder. It's just off the radar with success, and I think that's because it's a hybrid product. It's unique and something unlike anything I had ever created. I knew in the back of my mind exactly what I wanted with this product and to see it do so well is a proud moment.

Howard McLaren, R+Co
Amanda Wall

Howard McLaren, R+Co

Which product didn't do as well as you expected? What did you learn from that experience?
The original Continental Wax didn't do as well. Wax is very difficult for the consumer. We had to make a product that is easier to use and had more functionality. I really took the time to study the market and focused on the feedback from the consumer. We had to adjust it to be more consumer-friendly, and that meant a wax with more hold, less grease. If a product is not working, it's important to scrap it completely and start over. For us, it was about upgrading ingredients and performance to create a product that our consumers could understand and use in their own styling routines. Brand quality is number one, always. We had to make sure the product was up to par with what our consumer expects from the R+Co brand.

Tell us one unexpected way you use a cult product.
My favorite is to use our Vicious Strong Hold Flexible Hairspray to get rid of static. It's great for slips or any materials prone to static. Of course, static pops up while we're actually wearing the garment, so what I say to do is just lift the garment and spray it from underneath, maybe 12 to 14 inches away. This way, it still makes contact and gets the job done, but it's not too sticky.

What is your best advice to someone trying to break into the beauty industry in 2016?
First and foremost, get your history in order! You have to know what happened 100 years ago, 50 years ago, and so on. And not just time period — but also different countries. What the trends in the 1980s were in America vs. Britain are very different things. Now that we are moving at such a fast pace because of social media, the trends change and they change fast. You could be going through three different time periods in one year. You have to really understand and do your research so that you can have those conversations that allow you to bring something to the table. Knowledge is power in the industry, and it's so easy: you can just google now to get the information you need!

Create achievable goals. Start with small, achievable goals that allow you to eventually build up to your overall goal. Break it down, step by step to make it more achievable as you go along. Decide your role in this industry. Who are you? Who do you want to be? What role do you want to play? I can't stress enough how important it is to find a mentor. This person will help to guide you through your career.

Sonia Kashuk, Sonia Kashuk Beauty
Getty | D Dipasupil

Sonia Kashuk, Sonia Kashuk Beauty

Share your career path!
My career path was definitely unconventional, full of twists and turns. In short, I started out in styling but got into makeup accidentally when a makeup artist on a video shoot I was working canceled last minute. I absolutely loved it — all of my friends were hairdressers, so it was a comfortable world to be in. And I thought, if I'm going to do this I had to be in the heart of the business. So I moved from Minneapolis to New York. I had the extraordinary opportunity of meeting and working with Arthur Elgort, and he decidedly changed my career path, introducing me to the who's who of the editorial advertising world, and that really opened the door for me. A big mantra in my life has always been that people can open doors for you, but you need to know how to walk through them!

I was always interested in both the art and commerce aspects of the business. Working as a makeup artist, I got to excel in the art aspect, but when the Aveda corporation (a fellow Minneapolis company) asked me to consult for them, I got a taste of the commerce side. I really enjoyed developing and creating products. I found it immensely rewarding and creative. And a couple years later when I was on a book tour with Cindy Crawford, I came up with the concept for my brand while roaming the makeup aisles in mass retailers. So I reached out to Target, and it's crazy to think that was almost two decades ago!

What product have you developed that you are most proud of and why?
I've created so many products I love over the years, but I think what makes me so proud is all of my firsts. If you want to talk big picture, I was the first makeup artist brand to bring luxury products to mass market, effectively blurring the line and creating this category of "masstige," which was revolutionary. But throughout the life of the brand, there have been a few notable firsts we achieved, like bringing the first affordable makeup brush to market or being the first to pair a no-feather lip pencil with a gloss. We were also the first to put an eyelash comb on a mascara component and the first to introduce palettes to the mass market. I have always tried to be ahead of the curve, and I think that's where a lot of our success comes from. My intention was never to be a "me too" brand.

Sonia Kashuk, Sonia Kashuk Beauty
Courtesy of Sonia Kashuk

Sonia Kashuk, Sonia Kashuk Beauty

Which product didn't do as well as you expected? What did you learn from that experience?
Trying to come up with unique ideas can have its downside, and we definitely saw that with a few products. Mass is a challenging environment, and without samples to test, consumers need to be able to look at the product and immediately understand it. When we started, we basically would put an item on the shelf and pray it sold. Unfortunately, there were quite a few times when our prayers weren't answered, and amazing products never really took off the way we hoped. For instance, I launched a product in a skin care line many years back called Recede Eye Serum. It was dispensed through these three metal rolling balls that cooled upon application. It was the first of its kind, and this packaging was truly ground-breaking. However, since the customer couldn't see or fully understand the applicator on shelf, people missed the point of difference, and the product was eventually discontinued. A few major brands launched the same concept shortly after with advertisements, and it resulted in huge wins for them. Fortunately, in today's world you can turn to social media for that added voice to give background on a product and essentially teach the consumer how to use it, which absolutely would have been helpful when launching those new interesting concepts.

What is your best advice to someone trying to break into the beauty industry in 2016?
There's always room for a great idea but most importantly think about your point of difference.

Julie Bell, Benefit Cosmetics
Benefit Cosmetics

Julie Bell, Benefit Cosmetics

What product have you developed that you are most proud of and why?
I'm most proud of our new Benefit Brow Collection. This was truly the biggest product development high of my entire career. The product development creative process began more than three years ago. I put together a small, dedicated innovation team who worked exclusively on brows. They did nothing but eat, drink, and sleep brows!

We started by talking about our own personal brow dilemmas, because we knew "normie" gals all over the world would share the same dilemmas and also be looking for solutions. We met with packaging and formula development teams in a hidden loft space on our 22nd floor. I thought of it as our own small Silicon Valley "brow startup." We even sat around in pink bean bag chairs and came up with ideas! My boss, Benefit's CEO, joined us twice a month.

Julie Bell, Benefit Cosmetics
Benefit Cosmetics

Julie Bell, Benefit Cosmetics

Which product didn't do as well as you expected? What did you learn from that experience?
Big Easy, our BB cream, didn't do as well as we expected. Key learning: We need to stay true to our DNA (instant beauty solutions). All of our most successful product development has started with customer need. In the case of Big Easy, I got influenced by the industry around me and the BB cream trend. I'm still very proud of the innovative formula we developed but this product was a learning experience for me.

It had too many messages for our customer and too many stories. And to be perfectly honest, as much as I love the name Big Easy, it didn't tell customers what the product does. Since then our names have a DNA wink-wink factor but also offer the customer directional clarity so she understands what she is buying.

Tell us one unexpected way you use a cult product.
I use the POREfessional Face Primer on my body. The same way it smooths out pores on my face, it smooths out the look of those embarrassing "situations" on my body (aka cellulite). I use it on my upper arms, the back of my thighs, and now a new "pop-up" spot — the sides of my stomach. I go through tubes and tubes of it during the Summer. I'd take a bath in the stuff if I could!

What is your best advice to someone trying to break into the beauty industry in 2016?
Be passionate — passion speaks louder than words. You have to love makeup, wear makeup, and be obsessed with makeup. Beauty opportunities continue to come knocking for gals who are team players, uber curious, and bring lots of laughter, fun, and smart ideas to work every day.